Ruifang and Jiufen — when these place names come up, most people envision stone-stepped old streets draped with the fragrance of taro balls,复古 tea houses, and red lantern-lit alleyways climbing the mountainside. This area is indeed Taiwan's most iconic mining culture tourist destination, but what many don't know is that hidden within this mountain town — primarily shaped by Minnan and Hakka immigrant history — are a few rare communities in New Taipei City that have preserved traditional aboriginal dietary traditions.
Strictly speaking, Jiufen Old Street itself is not an aboriginal cuisine stronghold. The authentic aboriginal dining experience must be sought in the suburban areas around Ruifang and Shuangxi. Local elders say that in the early days, the coal mining industry attracted many aboriginal workers from the mountains who came down to earn a living. They brought hunting culture, mountain cuisine, and traditional ingredients into the mining settlements. Although this history has gradually faded with the closure of the mines, some aboriginal families still remain there, continuing a unique semi-mountain, semi-urban lifestyle. Against this backdrop, certain corners of Ruifang District have become rare aboriginal dining hotspots in northern Taiwan.
When it comes to aboriginal cuisine in Ruifang, the defining characteristic is the 'living off the mountain' ingredient philosophy. Wild boar meat isn't purchased from supermarkets — it's sourced by hunters from the mountains in season; wild greens don't come with organic farm labels in精致 packaging — they're foraged by the proprietress early morning by the stream. This concept of sourcing locally contrasts sharply with the highly commercialized tourist snacks on Jiufen Old Street. In terms of pricing, mountain cuisine and wild vegetable dishes typically cost NT$300-600 per person for a相当丰盛的 meal. For set menus featuring roasted wild boar, stream fish, and vegetable platters, the industry standard averages around NT$400-500 per person.
To experience this rare mining mountain aboriginal cuisine, explore the alleyways around Ruifang Station or venture deeper along Ruibin Road. Next to Ruifang Junior High School is a small restaurant run by a second-generation Atayal. The owner learned traditional charcoal-roasted wild boar from his father — the pork is first marinated in millet wine then fire-roasted, with crispy skin and fragrant meat, minimal seasoning to showcase the ingredient's original flavor. This place has no sign; regular customers come by scent alone. A take-out roasted wild boar bento costs NT$180,相当实惠的铜板价.
Heading toward Jinguashi, on Jinshui Road there's a restaurant combining local ingredients with aboriginal cooking techniques, specializing in stone hotpot and wild vegetable salads. The stone hotpot is the owner's creative twist — taking the traditional Atayal stone-searing method and adapting it, using hot spring stones to cook the soup on the spot. The broth adds 'guoshanmao' (a mountain vegetable) and wild scallion, creating a truly unique aroma. This place operates on an à la carte system, with per-person spending around NT$450-650 depending on dish selection. Reservations are recommended as the owner prepares only fixed quantities of ingredients daily.
If you're willing to venture deeper into Shuangxi's mountain roads, about a 20-minute drive from Ruifang reaches Gongliao area. Hidden in certain corners of Gongliao are simple meal shops run by Amis families, specializing in creative wild vegetable cuisine. Their wild vegetable scrambled eggs use mountain chrysanthemum and 'guocai' (fern tips), mixed with snails (naturally growing in local ditches), texture similar to French escargot but with the freshness of wild vegetables — one serving costs NT$120. Another signature dish is 'mountain rice' — purple rice mixed with a small amount of white rice, added barley and red quinoa, followed by a cup of freshly brewed 'magong' tea. The entire meal set costs under NT$280.
Besides these specific locations, along Provincial Highway 2C from Ruifang to Shuangxi, there are actually many family-style aboriginal restaurants scattered about. These places usually lack tourist packaging and the environment isn't fancy, but taste speaks the most honest language. The proprietresses are mostly middle-aged or older aboriginal women; their kitchens have no molecular gastronomy or plating aesthetics — just stove fire, salt, and decades of accumulated skill.
Last reminder: Aboriginal dining information in Ruifang and Jiufen mountain town is relatively dispersed, with many shops lacking complete map coordinates or online reviews. It's recommended to plan your itinerary in a 'problem-oriented' way: First arrive at Ruifang Station, then ask locals or check community bulletin boards for handwritten ads, which often lead to unexpected discoveries. Best visiting seasons are spring and autumn, when mountain weather is stable and wild vegetables are abundant; summer rainy season has worse road conditions, and in winter, some mountain shops may choose to close. If you want to explore deeper local flavors after enjoying Jiufen's night views and taro balls, the mountain roads of Ruifang and Shuangxi are worth the detour.
In this place where mining culture and aboriginal history intersect, what you eat is not just food — it's a forgotten industrial memory. The mountain town's story includes not only the gold-rushing years of Jinguashi, but also those aboriginal figures who walked out of the mountains and continued writing their lives with their own hands at the coal mines and dining tables.
