If your Japan backpacking dictionary only includes Tokyo Metro and Osaka Metro, this Hiroshima tram ticket will open up another dimension for you. Japan's last large streetcar network isn't in Tokyo or Osaka—it's in Hiroshima, the city that was flattened by an atomic bomb and rose again, telling stories of survival through its tracks.
The birth of Hiroshima's rail system itself is a condensed history of modern Japan. Hiroshima Electric Railway opened in 1911, earlier than Tokyo's introduction of streetcars—that was the modern dream of the Taisho era. On August 6, 1945, humanity's first atomic bomb exploded over Hiroshima, plunging the entire city into flames, tracks twisted, trams burned, roads disappeared. But Hiroshima residents didn't give up—they started repairing routes the very next year, restoring full line service in 1952—this script of "destroyed then reborn" now sounds like allegory, but for Hiroshima people it's everyday reality.
So why doesn't Hiroshima have a subway? The answer is practical: post-war resources were limited, building subways requires huge funding, and Hiroshima's city scale and population density are well-served by streetcar capacity. Streetcar costs are only one-tenth of subway costs, maintenance is relatively simpler, and most importantly, these tracks themselves are part of the city's memory. Now Hiroshima streetcars carry about 120,000 commuters and tourists daily—a figure second only to the Keihanshin area among Japan's streetcar systems.
【Main Line: The City's Axis Line Running Through Pain and Hope】
The heart of Hiroshima's streetcar system is the Main Line, departing from Hiroshima Station, passing through Hon-dori Business District, Kanayama Castle Ruins Park, and ultimately reaching Nishi-Hiroshima's Peace Memorial Park. This line connects the city's dark past with a bright future.
Atomic Bomb Dome Station (Bakudan Rakuyō Dome-mae): This isn't the official station name, but older drivers all call it that. The actual station name is "Hongan-ji Mae," just a 3-minute walk from the UNESCO World Heritage site "Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park (Genbaku Dome)." The explanatory panel beside the platform clearly documents the 1945 casualties and the city's rebirth. If you're only spending half a day in Hiroshima, this stop is essential.
Fukuro-machi Station: This station hides Hiroshima's most authentic daily life. Next to the station sign there's a small barbershop, run by a third-generation owner who's been cutting hair for nearby residents since the Showa era. She told me: "Back in the day, ticket collectors would come here for haircuts—they said it was the cheapest." This might be true, because a haircut near the station now costs around ¥1,500, almost half of what major Tokyo salons charge.
Hiroshima Station: This is where the Shinkansen and streetcar lines intersect. From Shin-Osaka on the Hikari train takes approximately 80 minutes, with fares at ¥8,870 (unreserved seat). If you hold a JR Pass All Kyushu or JR Pass National, this section can be ridden for free. The streetcar stop is to the right of the North Exit—be sure to look for the "Hiroshima Electric Railway Boarding Point" sign, otherwise you'll easily get lost in the underground passage.
【Miyajima Line: The Sea Track Leading to the Abode of Gods】
For Japan's most scenic rail journey, Hiroshima's Miyajima Line is definitely a top contender. This railway from Hiroshima Station to Miyajima-guchi ends at a port in the Seto Inland Sea, with the floating torii gate right in front of you.
Miyajima-guchi Station: This is the departure point for ferries to Itsukushima Shrine. Boats depart every 10 minutes, crossing time is about 10 minutes, with round-trip fares at ¥400. If you want to save money, you might buy tickets for the slow ferry at the port—round trip only costs ¥300. I strongly recommend taking the first morning boat for a "private" experience—when the floating torii gate is bathed in morning light, surrounded by silence except for seagull calls, this experience beats any other time value-wise.
Hatsukaichi Station: This is the gateway to Miyajima, with a large drugstore and AEON mall nearby. If you forgot to buy any souvenirs, this is your last chance to stock up. The local family restaurant "Merry" serves mixed soup noodles (¥680) as a breakfast choice—the taste is more authentic than tourist district restaurants.
Miyajima: The floating torii gate on Miyajima Island is one of Japan's most iconic symbols. At high tide, the entire gate is submerged in water; at low tide, you can walk directly to the base of the gate to appreciate the vermillion laquer details. Over 3 million people visit annually, with foreign tourists accounting for an increasing proportion—reaching 90% of pre-pandemic levels in 2023. The significance behind this number: for many foreigners, "going to Hiroshima" equals "seeing the floating torii gate," not just learning about nuclear history—whether this is cultural victory or a problem depends on individual interpretation.
【Kure Line: To the Industrial Heart of the Seto Inland Sea】
Another name card of Hiroshima Prefecture is Kure City, the former naval port where the Yamato battleship was secretly built, now a Maritime Self-Defense Force base. The journey to Kure on the Kure Line takes approximately 50 minutes, with fares at ¥470.
Kure Station: The station itself is part of JR Kure Station, displaying steel plate samples from the Yamato battleship construction. These steel plates weigh several tons and were once used to defend against torpedoes—now they serve as anti-war educational materials. Staff provide simple English commentary every 10 minutes, completely free. This low-cost yet thoughtfully designed display is Hiroshima style—not a grand museum, but equally moving. Iftime permits, take the ferry from Kure Port to Daifushima Island, one-way ¥600, 30-minute ride—citrus farms and coastside cafes there are hidden gems among young locals.
【Practical Information】
Fare Calculation: Hiroshima streetcars use a zone-based system: basic fare ¥190 (1-2 stops), ¥230 (3-5 stops), ¥290 (6+ stops). Day passes available on the tram for ¥500—recommended if riding more than 3 times daily. One-way fare from Hiroshima Station to Miyajima-guchi is ¥410; round-trip package is ¥760.
Operating Hours: First train around 5:00 AM, last train around 11:00 PM, daytime headway about 6-8 minutes, 10 minutes in the evening. Download the "Hiroshima Transportation" app (free on Android/iOS) to check real-time arrival times—unlike apps in Tokyo or Osaka, this one requires no registration and works immediately.
Payment Methods: Ticket machines accept IC cards (Suica, PASMO, ICOCA), though some older stations accept only coins. For first-time users, prepare ¥1,000 bills in advance—the machines recognize them more easily. Older drivers will make change, but movements are slower; younger passengers please be patient.
【Tips for Different Types of Travelers】
If You Only Have an Afternoon: Take the tram directly from Hiroshima Station to "Hongan-ji Mae" (Atomic Bomb Dome), walk through the Peace Memorial Park, then along the river to Fukuro-machi Station to experience Hiroshima residents' daily life. This route takes about 2 hours—no rush.
If You Have a Full Day and Love Photography: Start at Peace Memorial Park at 9 AM, grab a medium-roast latte (¥450) at "Grind Coffee" around noon, take the 2 PM Kure Line to Kure, return to Miyajima-guchi by the last boat at 5 PM to catch the sunset. This route's timing is tricky—check the ferry schedule in advance.
For Families: Taking streetcars to Kure isn't recommended—the Kure Line cars are older and wheelchair access is difficult. The Miyajima Line is better choice, with more flat paths near the dock where strollers can roll. That said, be prepared for at least 500 meters of walking—prepare mentally.
**A Final Thought**
The most charming thing about Hiroshima streetcars is that it's not a "clean" tourist route. It passes through residential areas, beside factories, sometimes with the smell of track maintenance workers' sweat. This "imperfection" is exactly its value—Japanese engineers prioritized reviving this rail system with scarce post-war resources, rather than investing in seemingly more "modern" subways. Now this "unmodern" track serves over 100,000 Hiroshima residents daily, as well as travelers wanting to understand the city's true face. Perhaps next time you stand in the tram car, watching Hiroshima's everyday life flash by outside, you can think about the context this track was created in—that's not romance, that's resilience.
