If your Japanese self-travel dictionary only includes Tokyo Metro and Osaka Metro, this Hiroshima electric railway ticket will help you discover another dimension. Japan's last large-scale streetcar network isn't in Tokyo or Osaka—it's in Hiroshima—the city that was flattened by an atomic bomb and rose again, telling a story of survival through its tracks.
The birth of the Hiroshima streetcar system itself is a compressed history of modern Japan. The Hiroshima Electric Railway opened in 1911, even before Tokyo introduced streetcars—that was the modern dream of the Taisho era. On August 6, 1945, the first atomic bomb in human history exploded over Hiroshima, plunging the entire city into a sea of fire, twisting rails, burning trams, and disappearing roads. But Hiroshima residents didn't give up—they began repairing the lines the very next year, and by 1952, full service was restored. This script of "destroyed then reborn" now sounds like a fable, but for people in Hiroshima, it's everyday reality.
So why doesn't Hiroshima have a subway? The answer is practical: post-war resources were limited, and building subways requires massive capital. Moreover, given Hiroshima's city scale and population density, the streetcar's capacity is sufficient. Streetcar costs are only one-tenth of subway costs, with relatively simpler maintenance. More importantly, these tracks are part of the city's memory itself. Hiroshima's streetcars now carry about 120,000 commuters and tourists daily—a figure second only to the Keihanshin area among Japan's streetcar systems.
【Main Line: The City Axis Running Through Pain and Hope】
The heart of Hiroshima's streetcar system is the Main Line, departing from Hiroshima Station, passing through the Hon-dori business district, Silver Castle Ruins Park, and ultimately reaching Peace Memorial Park in West Hiroshima. This line connects the city's dark past with a bright future.
Atomic Bomb Dome Station (爆弾落下圓頂站): This isn't the official station name, but older drivers still call it that. The actual station name is "Hon-ganji mae," just a three-minute walk from the UNESCO World Heritage Site "Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park (原爆ドーム)." The explanatory board beside the platform clearly documents the 1945 casualties and the city's rebirth. If you only have half a day in Hiroshima, this station is a must-visit.
Fukuro-machi Station: This station hides Hiroshima's most authentic everyday life. Next to the station sign is a small barbershop run by its third-generation owner, who has been cutting hair for nearby residents since the Showa era. She told me: "The ticket collectors all used to get their hair cut here—they said it was the cheapest." This might be true, since haircuts right in front of the station now cost around ¥1,500, nearly half the price of major Tokyo salons.
Hiroshima Station: This is the intersection of the Shinkansen and streetcar lines. From Shin-Osaka on the Nozomi takes approximately 80 minutes, with a fare of ¥8,870 (unreserved seat). If you hold a JR Pass for Kyushu or a nationwide JR Pass, this section is free to ride. The streetcar station is to the right of the north exit—remember to look for the "Hiroshima Electric Railway boarding" sign, otherwise you'll easily get lost in the underground passage.
【Miyajima Line: The Sea Track Leading to the Abode of Gods】
When it comes to Japan's most scenic rail journeys, Hiroshima's Miyajima Line is definitely on the list. This railway from Hiroshima Station to Miyajima-guchi has its terminal right at the port of the Seto Inland Sea, with the floating torii gate literally in sight.
Miyajima-guchi Station: This is the departure point for boats to Itsukushima Shrine, with ferries departing every 15 minutes and a crossing time of about 10 minutes. Round-trip tickets cost ¥400. If you want to save money, you might buy a slower ferry at the port for only ¥300 round-trip. I strongly recommend taking the first morning boat for a "private moment"—at that time, the floating torii gate is bathed in morning light, everything is quiet except for seagulls calling. This experience is worth the fare at any time.
Hatsukaichi Station: This is the gateway to Miyajima, with a large drugstore and AEON mall nearby. If you forgot to buy souvenirs, this is your last chance to restock. The family restaurant "Merry" near the station serves mixed soup noodles (¥680)—a local breakfast choice with more authentic taste than tourist-area restaurants.
Miyajima Station: The floating torii gate on Miyajima Island is one of Japan's most iconic symbols. At high tide, the entire torii gate is submerged in water; at low tide, you can walk directly to the bottom of the gate to admire the vermillion lacquer details. Over 3 million people visit here annually, with the proportion of international tourists increasing yearly, reaching 90% of pre-pandemic levels in 2023. The significance behind this number: for many foreigners, "going to Hiroshima" equals "seeing the floating torii gate," not just learning about nuclear history—whether this is cultural victory or something else is open to interpretation.
【Kure Line: To the Industrial Heart of the Seto Inland Sea】
Another hallmark of Hiroshima Prefecture is Kure City, the former naval port where the Yamato battleship was secretly built, now a Maritime Self-Defense Force base. The journey to Kure on the Kure Line takes approximately 50 minutes with a fare of ¥470.
Kure Station: The station itself is part of JR Kure Station, displaying steel plate samples from the original Yamato construction. These steel plates weigh several tons and were originally designed to withstand torpedoes—they now serve as anti-war educational materials. Staff provide simple English explanations every 10 minutes, completely free. This low-cost yet thoughtfully designed display is Hiroshima style—not a large-scale museum, but equally moving. If time permits, take the ferry from Kure Port to Omishima Island, one-way ¥600, 30-minute voyage, where citrus farms and coastal cafes are hidden gems for local youth.
【Practical Information】
Fare Calculation: Hiroshima streetcar uses a zone-based system, basic fare ¥190 (1-2 stations), ¥230 (3-5 stations), ¥290 (6+ stations). Day passes can be purchased directly on the tram for ¥500—recommended if riding more than 3 times in a day. One-way fare from Hiroshima Station to Miyajima-guchi is ¥410; round-trip package is ¥760.
Operating Hours: First train around 5:00, last train around 23:00, daytime intervals about 6-8 minutes, 10 minutes in evening. Downloading the "Hiroshima Traffic" app (free on Android/iOS) is recommended to check real-time arrival times—different from Tokyo or Osaka apps, this one requires no registration, just open and use.
Payment Methods: Ticket machines accept IC cards (Suica, PASMO, ICOCA), though some older stations only accept coins. For first-time users, it's advised to prepare ¥1,000 bills as machines识别 them more easily. Older drivers will make change, but operations are slower—please be patient with younger passengers.
【Tips for Different Types of Travelers】
If You Have Only an Afternoon: Take the tram directly from Hiroshima Station to "Hon-ganji mae" (Atomic Bomb Dome), walk through the Peace Memorial Park, then along the river to Fukuro-machi Station to experience Hiroshima residents' daily life. This route takes about 2 hours without rushing.
If You Have a Full Day and Love Photography: Start at Peace Memorial Park at 9 AM, have a medium-roast cappuccino (¥450) at "Grind Coffee" around noon, take the 2 PM Kure Line to Kure, return to Miyajima-guchi by 5 PM to catch the sunset on the last boat. This route requires precise timing—check the ferry schedule.
For Families: The Kure direction is not recommended via streetcar—reason being the Kure Line cars are older with difficult wheelchair access. The Miyajima Line is suggested, with more flat paths near the port for strollers. Even so, at least 500 meters of walking is required—prepare mentally.
A Final Thought: The most fascinating thing about Hiroshima streetcar is that it's not a "pristine" tourist route. It passes through residential areas, alongside factories, sometimes with the smell of track maintenance workers' sweat. This "imperfection" is precisely its value—Japanese engineers prioritized reviving this track system in post-war resource scarcity rather than investing in what appears "more modern" like subways. Now this "unmodern" track serves the daily lives of over 100,000 Hiroshima residents each day, as well as travelers wanting to understand the city's true appearance. Perhaps next time, standing in the tram car and watching Hiroshima's everyday life flash by outside the window, you can reflect on the context behind this track's creation—not romance, but resilience.
