As Hong Kong's gateway, the Airport Express extends all the way to Tung Chung, making Hong Kong's largest island the first stop for many travelers. However, this has resulted in Lantau's dim sum ecosystem taking on an extremely complex landscape: on one side, there are "Hong Kong-style teahouses" catering to tourist tastes, and on the other, traditional tea restaurants serving local neighborhood residents. Knowing how to tell them apart will prevent you from wasting money on disappointing dim sum.
The Three Worlds of Lantau Island Dim Sum
Convenient Dim Sum in the Airport Area
Dim sum shops inside and outside the airport primarily serve transit passengers. Prices are generally 30-50% higher than in the city, but the convenience is unbeatable. If you're rushing for a flight, the Hong Kong-style tea restaurant in Terminal 2 of the airport is a good choice—siu mai and har gow are both up to standard. Just be prepared that a basket of har gow will cost HK$58.
Community Tea Houses in Tung Chung New Town
Since the MTR Tung Chung Line opened, Tung Chung has transformed from a fishing village into a new town, bringing with it numerous tea houses serving local residents. Dim sum prices here are reasonable—you can get a set with one pot and two items for around HK$40-60. The flavors tend toward traditional Hong Kong style, without modifications to cater to tourists. The tea houses near Tung Chung Station are often packed with locals pulling their luggage during morning tea hours—a sure sign of a great tea house.
Premium Tea Snacks in Ngong Ping Tourist Area
The tea houses around the Ngong Ping Cable Car station and near the Tian Tan Buddha serve an entirely different market. They primarily cater to tourists with elegant decor, but dim sum quality varies widely, with prices starting at twice that of Tung Chung. However, if it's your first time in Hong Kong, enjoying tea at the foot of the Big Buddha is certainly an experience—though just don't set your expectations too high.
Snack Spots Worth the Trip
Neighborhood Tea House at Tung Chung Town Centre Plaza
Located in the mall above MTR Tung Chung Station, this tea house starts serving dim sum from 7am every morning. Their char siu bao comes highly recommended—the bun is fluffy, the BBQ pork has the perfect fat-to-meat ratio, and it juices with every bite. The shrimp dumplings have thin wrappers and generous fillings, with succulent shrimp that完全没有冷冻蝦的粉感 (have none of that frozen shrimp taste). At roughly HK$45 for a two-piece serving, this is quite generous by Lantau standards. Weekends see many families with kids coming for yum cha, giving it an authentic atmosphere.
Old-School Cafe Near Mui Wo Ferry Pier
Take the ferry from Central to Mui Wo, and just a 3-minute walk from the pier lands you at this cafe that's been open for over 30 years. Their dim sum isn't fancy, but it's made with genuine warmth. The owner remembers regulars' preferences, and their homemade rice noodle rolls are silky smooth, especially when paired with preserved radish. The chicken feet and spare rib rice is also popular—you can get a filling meal of dim sum plus a main for around HK$60. The biggest draw here is the relaxed pace—no turnover pressure, letting you slowly enjoy island time.
Dim Sum at Tai O Water Town Tea Restaurant
Since salted egg yolk is Tai O's claim to fame, the local tea restaurant naturally makes good use of it. Their custard buns are made with genuine salted duck eggs, giving them a richer flavor than the artificial custard you'll find at other tea houses. Steamed egg dumplings are another specialty, filled with dried shrimp and locally made salted fish, creating layers of flavor. Prices are slightly higher than in the city, but considering the dedicated bus ride required, the extra cost is reasonable.
Western-Inspired Tea House Fusion at Discovery Bay
Discovery Bay is home to a large expat community, and its tea houses reflect this East-meets-West character. Beyond traditional Hong Kong dim sum, you'll find innovations like shrimp dumplings with cheese and char siu bao made with prosciutto. Prices are on the higher side—HK$68-88 per basket of dim sum—but quality is consistent and the ambiance is refined. If you want to experience "internationalized" Hong Kong tea culture, this is a good choice.
Practical Information
Getting There
- Airport Express: Direct to Tung Chung Station, 22 minutes, Single journey HK$65
- MTR Tung Chung Line: From Hong Kong Station, approx. 30 minutes, Single journey HK$29.1
- Ferry: Central to Mui Wo, Monday to Saturday HK$15.5, Sundays and public holidays HK$24
- Bus: From Tung Chung, take bus 11 or 23 to Tai O, approx. 45 minutes
Budget Guide
- Airport area: Dim sum HK$80-120
- Tung Chung town: Dim sum HK$40-65
- Mui Wo/Tai O: Dim sum HK$50-80
- Discovery Bay: Dim sum HK$70-100
Opening Hours
Most dim sum restaurants serve morning dim sum from 7:00-11:30 AM and afternoon dim sum from 2:00-5:00 PM. Dim sum shops in the airport area tend to have longer hours, typically staying open until 9:00 PM.
Tips to Avoid Tourist Traps
Don't be fooled by signs boasting "Authentic Hong Kong Style" – truly excellent dim sum houses never need to advertise their authenticity. Observe the customer composition: if 90% of the guests are tourists dragging luggage, the quality is usually not great. Take a look at the tea set – if they don't even have a Yixing teapot and only use glass teapots, it's likely a fast-food style operation.
Most importantly, don't rush to complete your dim sum quest near the airport. Take some time to ride the MTR to Tung Chung or hop on a ferry to Mui Wo – you'll discover an entirely different Lantau dim sum experience. After all, good dim sum, like good travel, requires some patience to uncover.
