Hualien is home to Taiwan's most representative national park landscapes. Taroko National Park and the eastern side of Yushan National Park are not just showcases of geological wonders, but also living fossils of Taiwan's indigenous culture. For a cultural and historical researcher who has navigated the old streets for years, the most precious thing about these national parks is not the over-photographed attractions, but the cultural traces left by indigenous peoples' dialogue with the land over millennia.
Looking at National Parks from Ethnic Memory
The core value of Taroko National Park lies in its complete preservation of the traditional territories of the Taroko people. Every trail here, every gorge, holds stories of the tribe. Unlike other overly commercialized scenic areas, Taroko still allows you to feel the raw power. But a common mistake visitors make is treating this as a pure scenic area, ignoring the cultural depth.
The Hualien side of Yushan National Park is an even more hidden treasure. Most people only know about Tatajia on the western side, but the Nan'an and Walami trail area on the eastern side preserves the most complete hunting trail culture of the Bunun people. These areas, due to transportation inconvenience, have been spared from excessive development, maintaining a purer ecological and human environment.
Recommended In-Depth Exploration Sites
Taroko Gorge Core Area (Shakadang Trail)
Shakadang means "molars" in the Taroko language. This trail follows the Shakadang Stream, and the marble gorge's breathtaking craftsmanship is awe-inspiring. But most visitors don't know that every bend in the trail corresponds to traditional Taroko place names. The trail is well-maintained and free to access, spanning approximately 4.1 km, suitable for all ages. It is recommended to avoid weekend crowds and depart before 8 AM on weekdays for the best experience.
Ba Yang Waterfall Trail (Dialogue between Tunnels and Springs)
What makes this trail special is passing through multiple tunnels before reaching Ba Yang Waterfall. The trail is 2.1 km long, and a flashlight is required. The waterfall area has abundant moisture, and geologically speaking, it is a "spring waterfall," with a different formation from ordinary river waterfalls. This is also a traditional water-fetching sacred site for the Taroko people, who believe the waterfall has the power to purify the soul.
Section from Nan'an Visitor Center to Feng'er Bridge
This is the eastern entrance to Yushan National Park, where the Lakulaku Stream and Laonong Stream meet. Nan'an is a Bunun term "namasiya," meaning "the place where we meet." This section follows the stream for about 3 km, where you can see complete river terrace formations and indigenous traditional farming ruins. The best observation period is from March to May, when wild animals are most active. Walami Trail (Ancient Trail Cultural Corridor)
Walami is the Japanese word for "ferns." This ancient trail is a section of the Batongguan Crossing Trail from the Japanese colonial period. The first 13.6 km of the trail is open to general visitors, and along the way you can see historical relics such as the Jiaxin Police Station and Huangma Police Station. The Bunun people's traditional hunting trails intertwine with the Japanese colonial period's indigenous policies, forming a complex cultural landscape. It is recommended to choose Jiaxin Police Station as the endpoint (about 9 km round trip), which allows for a full experience of the ancient trail atmosphere. Hehuan Mountain East Peak Trailhead (Alpine Grassland Ecology)
Although belonging to Taroko National Park, ascending from the Hualien side at Dayuling offers a completely different alpine ecosystem. The East Peak, at 3,421 meters elevation, is a relatively easy entry-level among Taiwan's Hundred Mountains. From April to June, Yushan rhododendrons bloom profusely; from October to November, the silvergrass turns golden, offering rich layered landscapes. This is also a traditional hunting area for the Seediq people, and along the mountain paths, you can see hunting cabin ruins. Transportation: Taroko National Park can be reached by taking Hualien Bus routes 1126 or 1129 to the Taroko Visitor Center, with a journey time of about 1 hour and a fare of NT$85. For the eastern side of Yushan, self-driving is recommended. From Hualien City, take Provincial Highway 9 to Provincial Highway 30 to reach Nan'an, with a driving time of about 2 hours. Hehuan Mountain East Peak is accessible via Provincial Highway 8 (Central Cross-Island Highway), and there are often restrictions in winter. Fees: Taroko National Park has no admission fee. Parking fees are NT$60 per visit for large vehicles and NT$30 for small vehicles. The Walami Trail requires a mountain entry permit, which is free but must be applied online 7-60 days in advance. Climbing Hehuan Mountain East Peak requires a park entry permit, costing NT$100 per person. Opening Hours: Visitor Center: 8:30-16:45, trails are open 24 hours but solo nighttime hiking is not recommended. The Walami Trail Jiaxin Police Station section is open from 6:00-17:00, and overnight stays in mountain huts require separate application. Due to the high altitude of the Hehuan Mountain area, it is often closed due to snow from November to March. Bring a copy of the "Dictionary of Taiwan Indigenous History, Language and Culture" to understand the cultural significance behind place names, which will add depth to your journey. The temperature inside Taroko Gorge is 3-5 degrees Celsius lower than the plains, so even in summer, it is recommended to bring a light jacket. Most importantly, these national parks are the traditional territories of indigenous peoples. Please enter with respect—do not speak loudly or arbitrarily pick plants. In recent years, due to cross-strait political tensions, mainland tourist groups have sharply decreased, which has反而讓這些國家公園回歸較純粹的自然狀態。趁著現在人潮相對較少，正是深度體驗的最佳時機。但也要注意，部分地區因為維護人力不足，安全設施可能不如以往完善，行前務必查詢最新狀況。Practical Information
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