The most enchanting aspect of cycling routes across the Lanyang Plain isn't the popular tourist attractions, but rather the seasonal transformations hidden among the rice paddies and streams. As a cultural historian who frequently explores old streets throughout Taiwan, I've discovered that Yilan offers a unique kind of "slow" cycling experience—one that isn't artificially created for tourism, but rather reflects the natural rhythm of this land.
The Unique Plain Cycling Culture
The charm of Yilan's cycling routes lies in its "season-limited" scenery. In spring, the onion fields turn a vibrant green; in summer, the rice waves sway with the wind; in autumn, golden rice ears echo with the distant mountains; and in winter, the fallow fields reveal the simple beauty of black soil. This seasonal rotation of agricultural landscape offers a cycling experience impossible to replicate in the mountain or coastal routes of other counties. What's more important is that many traces of Japanese-era water infrastructure, as well as the complete post-war rural settlement patterns, have been preserved here.
Selected Cycling Routes
Yuanshan Airraid Shelter Historical Route
Following the rural roads of Yuanshan Township, you can visit the Kamikaze fighter airraid shelters left by the Japanese during World War II. This approximately 12-kilometer route starts from Yuanshan Train Station, passes through Zhenshan, and continues to Shuanglianpi. The airraid shelters are hidden among betel nut groves and can only be found with a local guide. This isn't a touristified relic, but a real memory of war—cycling through it, you can feel the heaviness of history and the passage of time. Along the way, you'll pass by several old pastry shops run by three generations—it's recommended to stop and try the traditional red turtle cake.
Sanxing Onion Field Seasonal Route
The onion field route in Sanxing Township is best at dawn or dusk, avoiding the scorching midday sun. This 15-kilometer circular route starts from Sanxing Train Station and follows the tributaries of the Annong River. Spring and summer are the most beautiful seasons for the onion fields—neat rows of onion fields spread across the earth like green carpets. The key isn't taking photos, but stopping to chat with the farmers working in the fields, understanding the process from planting to harvest. Many farming families have worked this land for generations—their stories are more fascinating than any guided tour.
Dongshan River Old Channel Exploration Route
Most tourists only know about the Dongshan River Water Park, but the real essence lies in the old channel. Starting from Dongshan Train Station, cycling approximately 8 kilometers along the old channel, you can see the natural appearance before the river was regulated. Here, egrets, night herons, and other water birds inhabit, as well as bamboo trails remembered only by the older generation. The route passes by several Japanese-era sluice gate relics and simple docks built in the early post-war period. These locations that don't appear on official maps can only be found by asking local grandparents.
Jiaoqi Hot Spring Area Backmountain Route
Avoiding the touristified Jiaoqi city area, this approximately 10-kilometer mountain trail starts from the backmountain path of Deyang Road. This route passes by several abandoned small hot springs and Japanese-era military road relics. In spring, mountain cherries bloom; in autumn, wild ginger flowers fill the air with fragrance. The route ends at the upstream of Wu Fengqi Waterfall, where there's a natural wild hot spring known only to locals. Remember to bring a towel—you can soak in the wild hot spring after cycling, but be mindful of environmental protection and leave no trash behind.
Luodong Forestry Cultural Route
Starting from the Luodong Forestry Cultural Park, this approximately 6-kilometer route follows the old forest railway bed. This route preserves the most Japanese-era forestry development痕迹, including old stations, log storage ponds, and railway beds for transporting timber. Along the way, you'll pass by the Bamboo Station site and several old worker dormitory complexes. Although these wooden buildings are dilapidated, they still evoke the prosperity of the forestry industry's golden era. It's recommended to cycle during dusk—the wooden buildings are particularly atmospheric when the sunset casts its glow.
Practical Cycling Information
Transportation Arrangements
It's recommended to take the Taiwan Railway to various Yilan stations and rent a bicycle there. Yilan Train Station, Luodong Train Station, and Dongshan Train Station all have YouBike 2.0 stations, NT$10 per 30 minutes, with the first half hour free. Lady's bikes or geared bikes at private rental shops cost approximately NT$200-300 per day, while electric bikes cost approximately NT$500-600 per day. Some homestays also offer free bicycle borrowing services.
Best Cycling Time
Avoid the intense heat of summer (11:00-15:00) and the strong northeast monsoon in winter. Spring (March-May) and autumn (September-November) are the best seasons—comfortable weather and beautiful scenery. The most distinctive scenery appears before and after the rice harvest (June, October). During the rainy season (May-June), be cautious of water accumulation on roads, especially on rural paths.
Route Safety Reminders
Most rural roads are shared paths—you must share the right of way with agricultural machinery. Dawn and dusk are farmers' working hours, so be especially careful of large machinery entering and leaving. Some historical relics are on private land—be sure to obtain the landowner's permission before entering. Although wild hot springs are natural, they lack safety facilities—assess your personal ability before entering. Mobile phone signals may be poor in mountainous areas—it's recommended to download offline maps in advance.
Travel Tips
The real Yilan cycling experience isn't about mileage or checking off tourist spots—it's about having a dialogue with this land. It's recommended to prepare a small notebook to record the interesting people and things you encounter along the way. Stop with curiosity to chat with farmers and old shop owners—you'll often discover unexpected stories. Choose local eateries to taste seasonal agricultural cuisine. Remember, the most beautiful scenery often appears at the next intersection after a turn—don't rush, cycle slowly and feel the warmth of this plain with your heart.
