The charm of Hualien's hot springs dining lies not only in the excellent thermal waters, but also in the convenience of being able to go on a whim. Starting from Taipei on a Tze-Chiang express train, you can reach Hualien Station in just two and a half hours, then transfer to a local train or bus and arrive at the hot spring areas around the city within thirty minutes. This "railway + hot springs" travel model has made Hualien the most accessible hot springs getaway for northern Taiwan travelers.
Hualien's hot spring density is unparalleled in eastern Taiwan, concentrated primarily in the Ruishui Hot Spring area and Antong Hot Spring area, both about an hour's drive from Hualien City. Ruishui Hot Spring is famous for its sodium bicarbonate springs, nicknamed "Golden Soup" by locals due to its golden-hued water. Antong Hot Spring is a typical sulfate-chloride spring, said to have辅助 effects for chronic skin conditions. The dining characteristics in these two areas are distinctly different: Ruishui focuses on indigenous cuisine and dishes cooked with fresh milk, while Antong preserves more traditional Taiwanese banquet-style flavors.
Songge Restaurant is the most representative long-established restaurant in the Ruishui Hot Spring area, founded over fifty years ago. Its exterior is traditional red brick architecture, while the interior maintains a strong old-fashioned ambiance. Their signature dish "Angelica Lamb Hot Pot" uses locally raised lamb with a Chinese herbal angelica base; the broth is warming without being drying, priced at approximately NT$380-450, quite affordable. Another dish, "Fresh Milk Sea Bass," cooks the whole sea bass in local Ruishui fresh milk. The fish meat is delicate with a subtle milk fragrance, a must-order dish for out-of-town visitors. The restaurant's dining area is divided between indoor and semi-outdoor courtyard seating. On cool days, dining in the courtyard while enjoying the hot spring steam is quite delightful.
Xieshun Restaurant is also located on Ruishui Hot Spring Road, about a five-minute walk from Songge. This restaurant's specialty is incorporating indigenous ingredients into banquet menus, such as "Mountain Fern with Lover's Tears" (a dish made with wild mushrooms and mountain ferns) and "Scallion Egg Pancake" — flavors not easily found in cities. Their signature "Barrel Chicken" uses free-range heritage chickens, roasted in traditional wooden barrels over charcoal. The skin is crispy while the meat is juicy, priced at NT$600 per chicken and requires reservation one hour in advance. The price is mid-range; dining for two with side dishes costs approximately NT$800-1000.
If your itinerary involves traveling south from Hualien City, consider stopping at Yuli Noodles when passing through Yuli Town. Yuli is the transportation hub of southern Hualien, about a 1 hour and 20 minute drive from Hualien City. Yuli Noodles feature flat white noodles with employer-made crispy shallots and bone broth, with a lighter flavor profile different from the oily taste commonly found in northern Taiwan. A large bowl of Yuli Noodles costs approximately NT$60-80, a very budget-friendly option. After eating, continuing south for about 20 minutes by car takes you to the Antong Hot Spring area.
Antong Hot Spring Villa is a long-established hot spring hotel in the Antong Hot Spring area, with an attached restaurant serving simple set menus. The dining here follows the traditional Taiwanese banquet style; their signature dish "Buddha Jumps Over the Wall" is generous with ingredients, priced under NT$500. "Steamed Grouper" uses seawater-farmed grouper with excellent freshness, priced at approximately NT$350-400. The restaurant's biggest advantage is that you can dine right after soaking in the hot springs, perfect for travelers who don't want to go far. The villa's outdoor hot spring pool faces the mountain valley; in the evening, water vapor and mountain mist fill the air, creating a very atmospheric visual experience.
To reach Ruishui Hot Spring area from Hualien Station, you can take the Taiwan Railways local train to Ruishui Station (fare approximately NT$120, about one hour), then transfer to a taxi or pre-arranged shuttle. If driving from Hualien City, head south on Provincial Highway 9, passing through Guangfu and Ruishui, totaling about one hour. Antong Hot Spring area is more convenient to visit by car or as part of a day tour.
Accommodation costs in the Ruishui and Antong Hot Spring areas are relatively affordable; double rooms in hot spring hotels can be stayed in for NT$1,500-3,500, with weekday versus weekend price differences reaching up to 30%. Late spring to early autumn is the off-season for hot spring bathing, when accommodation and dining often have promotional offers. For winter holidays, it is recommended to book rooms one week in advance.
A suggested itinerary: Take the morning Tze-Chiang express train from Taipei to Hualien Station (about two and a half hours), enjoy breakfast near the station, then rent a car and head south. First stop at Guangfu Sugar Factory for some ice cream (approximately NT$30-50), arrive at Ruishui's Songge Restaurant for lunch around noon, check into a hot spring hotel in the afternoon to relax and soak, head down the mountain in the evening to Xieshun Restaurant or Yuli Town for dinner, then return to Hualien City for accommodation. This itinerary doesn't require rushing and allows you to fully experience the dual charm of Hualien's hot springs and cuisine.
Another advantage of Hualien's hot springs dining is "great price flexibility." From NT$60 Yuli Noodles by the roadside to NT$600 barrel chicken banquets, everyone can find options that suit their budget. This is also the biggest difference between Hualien's hot springs and northern Taiwan's hot spring areas: there is no overly commercialized atmosphere here. Most restaurants are family-run legacy establishments, with chefs passing down their craft through two or more generations, preserving a more authentic Taiwanese hot springs dining culture.
