When people think of Jiufen, most associate it with taro balls, teahouses, and the setting for Spirited Away. However, this small mountain town actually harbors a culinary thread that few have noticed — the fusion of indigenous ingredients with local flavors.
Ruifang District, where Jiufen is located, was once the territory of the plains-dwelling Laicai people. Although the old street no longer shows direct ethnic traces today, a closer look reveals that the use of local ingredients and certain cooking methods still carry the DNA of indigenous food culture.
To enjoy indigenous cuisine in Jiufen, don't look for standards of an "authentic Aboriginal restaurant." Instead, understand the unique logic here: it's not about directly transplanting mountain tribal dishes, but rather integrating commonly used Aboriginal spices, marinating techniques, and ingredient handling methods into Jiufen's mountain town context.
【Recommended Places】
1. Ah Mei Tea House
This is not a traditional Aboriginal restaurant, but its tea snacks often incorporate local ingredients. The signature pickled plum is made using green plums with an ancient preservation method, perfectly balanced between sweet and sour, paired with Pinglin Baozhong tea. They also serve a sweet potato soup with ginger — this approach of simply handling root vegetables before cooking actually echoes the early Aboriginal cooking logic. Ah Mei Tea House's Tea Time costs NT$120-200, perfect for a leisurely afternoon visit.
2. The Nurse's Stall
A hidden stall at the end of Jishan Street, specializing in braised dishes and cold appetizers. The proprietress is a local who married into Jiufen. Her hand-crafted salted clams use the traditional Aboriginal salt-curing method, flavored only with garlic and chili, resulting in excellent freshness. Braised dishes start at NT$80. If you want to skip the taro balls, this is a great choice to experience " Jiufen-style old-fashioned flavor."
3. Squid Ball King
Not an Aboriginal dish, but this shop's squid balls are made from fresh squid浆 from the North Coast, hand-pounded — completely different from ordinary hot pot-grade squid balls. Jiufen is by the sea, and this logic of selecting ingredients — "eat from the mountain when by the mountain, eat from the sea when by the sea" — actually continues the indigenous spirit of sourcing locally. One serving costs NT$60, fried fresh and eaten on the spot.
4. Golden Branch Red Fermented Meat Dumpling
Red fermented rice wine is a traditional seasoning from Fujian's southern region, but in the Jiufen version, some shops add hill pepper (mountain pepper) for flavoring — a spice commonly used by Aboriginal peoples. Red fermented meat dumplings cost NT$45 each, with a chewy skin and a subtle wine aroma and green onion scent in the filling — a rare "Taiwanese-Aboriginal fusion flavor" on the old street.
5. Alan's Grass Dumpling
Grass dumplings are a traditional rice dish shared by Hakka people and some Aboriginal groups. Ah Lan's hand-crafted grass dumplings come in three fillings: red bean, savory meat, and sesame. The savory meat version uses pork belly, cured and mixed with shredded radish, giving it an old-fashioned, hearty taste. One costs NT$25, five for NT$100 — a budget-friendly food item carrying the meaning of ethnic fusion.
【Practical Information】
For transportation, take the Taiwan Railway from Taipei Main Station to Ruifang Station (approximately 40 minutes, NT$49), then transfer to bus 788 or 1062 to Jiufen Old Street. You can also take bus 1062 directly from Zhongxiao Dunhua MRT Station. If driving, it's recommended to park at the Ruifang Parking Area and walk up to avoid not finding a parking space during peak season.
Regarding business hours, most shops on Jiufen Old Street open after 10 AM and close around 8 PM, while teahouses stay open until 10 PM.
For expenses, Jiufen falls in the mid-range price category. A lunch costs approximately NT$150-300, and souvenirs (taro balls, grass dumplings) range from NT$50-200.
【Travel Tips】
Jiufen is often mistakenly thought to have hot springs, but there is actually no hot spring area here — don't be misled by travel agency flyers. If you want to experience authentic Aboriginal-style cuisine, head north to Gongliao or further to Yilan, where there are more restaurants directly featuring Aboriginal cuisine as their main focus.
Jiufen Old Street is not large and can be covered in two hours, but it's recommended to go on weekdays or early on non-holiday mornings for a completely different quality experience. The crowds on weekend afternoons are not just "busy" — it's practically "impossible to move."
Food Culture Background
Macao's culinary culture blends Cantonese Chinese and Portuguese cuisines into a unique Macanese Cuisine, recognized by UNESCO as a Creative City of Gastronomy in 2017. Beyond the Michelin Guide and Black Pearl Restaurant Guide, the Macao Consumer Council's "Trustworthy Shop" scheme lists dining establishments with good reputations, offering a reliable reference for visitors seeking authentic local experiences.
