When people think of Jiufen, their first reactions are food, lanterns, and Hayao Miyazaki's Bathhouse. But if you think that's the whole picture of Jiufen, you're missing the core cultural heart of this mountain town—an living museum of Taiwanese tea culture.
Jiufen's true soul lies hidden within those tea houses that carry Japanese-era architectural styles, slowly unfolding in the steam of tea tasting. Every tea house here is a time portal, connecting Taiwan's industrial evolution from mining to tea farming to cultural tourism.
What Makes Jiufen's Tea Houses Unique
Jiufen was originally a gold mining area. After the mining industry declined in the 1970s, the local area relied on the tea industry for transformation. Unlike other old streets, Jiufen's tea houses are not simply food and beverage establishments, but spaces that preserve Japanese-era architectural bones while integrating Taiwanese tea culture. Walking into these tea houses, you'll discover weathered beams, narrow stone steps, and ancient layouts built into the mountainside—all the work of Japanese-era architects, gradually transformed after the war into business spaces suited to tea culture.
Today's Jiufen Old Street is experiencing a subtle balance: how to adapt to the diverse needs of global travelers while protecting historic buildings and preserving tea culture traditions. After the pandemic, with fluctuations in the Chinese tourist market, many tea houses began adjusting their strategies, retaining traditional tea tasting experiences while developing more affordable individual tea servings. This change itself is a case study in Taiwanese cultural industry adaptation.
Five Tea Houses and Buildings Worth Exploring
1. Laoshe Teahouse — The Highest Completion of Wabi-Sabi Aesthetics
Address: No. 9, Shushun Street, Ruifang District, New Taipei City
Laoshe is the tea house I recommend most often in Jiufen. Not because it's the most famous, but because it's the most honest. The moment you push open the door, you'll feel what "the resonance between architecture and tea culture" means—dark wood beams, low seats by the windows, the amber glow of tea in ceramic cups. The Japanese-era wooden structure here hasn't been over-renovated; instead, it preserves the weathered, patina texture. The owner is a tea master himself, recommending different high-mountain oolong or Oriental Beauty teas based on seasonal changes. A set tea for two usually costs NT$500-700, with house-made red bean rice cakes or handmade cookies as accompaniments. I recommend visiting between 3-5 PM when the lighting is best and crowds are relatively smaller.
2. Tianlai Tea House — Mountain View Tea Experience on the Cliff's Edge
Address: No. 15, Shushun Street, Ruifang District, New Taipei City
If Laoshe represents wabi-sabi, Tianlai represents "visualized zen." This tea house's special feature lies in its scenic location—you can gaze at Keelung Mountain and the coastline from inside. The building's structure preserves an old residential layout, but the interior has been carefully modernized, achieving a balance between ancient space and contemporary comfort. Here the tea menu is more extensive, offering mid-range to premium options, suitable for visitors who want to explore tea but aren't ready for high costs. Groups of four or more get package discounts, approximately NT$200-250 per person. Open until 10 PM; many come for tea at sunset and stay to watch the night scenery light up. One note: this place has steep stairs, and visitors with mobility issues may need assistance.
3. A-Mei Tea House — A Sample of Commercial Revival for Historic Buildings
Address: No. 20, Shushun Street, Ruifang District, New Taipei City
If Laoshe and Tianlai represent "preservation," A-Mei represents "revitalization." This tea house gained fame through the check-in trend among Miyazaki fans, but its actual value lies in demonstrating how to make historic buildings "live again" within contemporary business models. The red lanterns and wooden signboard on the exterior are authentic recreations of Japanese-era design. The interior is divided into multiple floors with open views, suitable for groups. This is Jiufen's most internationalized tea house, offering English menus, with set tea for two at NT$400-600 and individual mini tea sets (NT$180-250). The downside: due to its fame, peak hours (4-7 PM) are very crowded; I recommend avoiding or making advance reservations. If you want to see the most "Instagram-worthy" Jiufen, this is it; if you want a quiet tea tasting experience, this isn't the first choice.
4. Jiufen Police Station — A Textbook Case of Building Preservation
Address: No. 65, Shushun Street, Ruifang District, New Taipei City
Strictly speaking, the police station isn't a tea house, but it's the most intuitive place to understand Jiufen's building preservation. This Japanese-era police building, after decades, has been converted into a small exhibition space and cultural hall. Brick walls, wooden window frames, Japanese-style roof design—every detail tells a story. In the 2010s, the Ruifang Township Office collaborated with cultural historians to restore this building, making it a successful case of Taiwanese historic preservation. Entry is free, but allow time to walk along nearby Changren Street to experience the architectural texture of the entire street. Across from the police station is a small bookstore selling local histories and old photographs of Jiufen—well worth browsing.
5. Shushun Trail — A Time Capsule of the Original Street
Address: Shushun Street (entire street), Ruifang District, New Taipei City
Shushun Trail is essentially Jiufen Old Street itself—but I list it as a separate "attraction" because it deserves to be seen as an overall architectural text, not just a commercial street. This stone-step street was built during the Japanese era to accommodate mining and transportation, and has preserved its most original texture to this day. Many tea house balconies on the second floor are built over the trail, creating a unique "double-layer street scene." If you want to understand Jiufen's spatial logic and historical evolution, I recommend walking it in the early morning (8-10 AM) or on rainy evenings (6-7 PM) when there are fewer people; the lighting is special, and you can see architectural details instead of crowds.
Practical Information
Transportation
From Taipei Main Station: Take Keelong Bus route 1062 or 1063 directly to Jiufen (approximately 1 hour, NT$65-85; check the schedule before boarding). Alternatively, take the train on the Ruifang line to Ruifang Station, then transfer to Keelong Bus, approximately 15 minutes.
Tea Price Reference
Individual mini tea set: NT$150-250
Set tea for two: NT$400-700
Set tea for four or more: NT$200-300 per person
Premium teas (Oriental Beauty, aged oolong): NT$600-1000+
Tea is usually accompanied by simple snacks (handmade cookies, red bean rice cakes, small bites), no additional charge.
Business Hours
Most tea houses: Open from 1-2 PM, close at 10-10:30 PM
Weekends have more tourists; I recommend visiting on weekdays or making advance phone reservations (especially for groups)
Best Seasons
Spring (March-May) and Autumn (September-November): Pleasant weather, tea aroma at its best, softest architectural lighting
Avoid: Plum rain season (late May-June), typhoon season (July-September), Lunar New Year and holiday periods
Accessibility
Jiufen Old Street is primarily stone steps, generally not wheelchair or mobility-friendly. Tianlai Tea House has some accessible floors, and A-Mei Tea House's first floor is accessible. I recommend those with mobility concerns prioritize these two and confirm by phone in advance.
Travel Tips
On Tea Etiquette
No need to be overly formal when tea tasting in Jiufen, but a few details are worth noting: the first cup of tea is usually used for "washing the leaves" (rinsing), which you can discard; tasting begins from the second cup. When drinking, there's no need to lift the entire cup; you can gently pick it up for a sip. If the tea is too hot, just wait; there's no rush.
Best Visiting Times
Avoid the tourist peak of 4-7 PM; instead, choose 11 AM-12 noon or 7-9 PM. When there are fewer visitors, tea house owners are usually more willing to chat and share stories about tea and architectural backgrounds.
Photography Tips
If you're an architecture or photography enthusiast, bring a camera. Morning side lighting makes ancient building textures particularly vivid; overcast days give the old street the best color tones. Avoid using flash, as it will destroy the tea house atmosphere.
Why Not Just Visit for an Hour
Jiufen's true value lies in "staying." I recommend spending at least 3-4 hours, choosing one tea house to sit in, reading or simply daydreaming over tea, and feeling the rhythm of the mountain town. If you just snap photos and rush through, you'll miss the deepest layer of Jiufen—that feeling of being gently treated by time.
