Visiting Alishan is not about conquering the altitude—it is about rediscovering forgotten memories of the mountain forest.
This once served as Taiwan's most significant forestry hub. During the Japanese colonial era, the extraction of cypress timber gave rise to thriving mountain settlements. Today, cyclists pedaling these trails are actually retracing the footsteps of forestry workers from a century ago. From the lowlands to the mountains, every route holds stories from different eras.
Three Main Lines of Literary and Historical Exploration
Japanese Colonial Forestry Heritage Trail is best suited for first-time explorers. Starting from Chiayi City and following Provincial Highway 18 to Shukou, this 30-kilometer gradual ascent carries the parallel memory of the Alishan Forest Railway. Near the Shukou Visitor Center, you can still see the remnants of early timber collection yards, where those massive red cypress logs were once shipped across all of Taiwan. During the ride, you can clearly feel the landscape transforming— from plain farmlands to tea gardens on the hillsides, then to the forest margins, with every turn marking an ecological boundary.
Tsou Tribal Culture Trail requires more physical effort. Turning from the Alishan Highway onto County Route 169, you'll venture deeper into traditional villages like Dabang and Tefuye. This route has steeper slopes, but the indigenous stone houses, traditional granaries, and ceremonial squares along the way allow you to understand what this land looked like before Han Chinese development. At the entrance of the old trail in Tefuye, the stone steps were once an important trading route between the Tsou people and lowland Han Chinese. When you ride here, it's worth walking your bike for a short distance to feel the hardship of the pioneers who carved these paths.
Forest Settlement Deep Trail is the most challenging option. Starting from the Alishan Forest Recreation Area, passing by Zhaoping, the old Muyue Line site, and reaching Tataga. This route involves dramatic altitude changes, but along the way, the abandoned logging sites, old railway tunnels, and worker hut ruins fully present the rise and fall of Taiwan's forestry industry. The broken bridges and remnants of the Muyue Line are particularly awe-inspiring— after the 921 earthquake, this railway line was cut off, becoming a testament to the changing times.
Shizilu Station Historical Site is a must-not-miss stopover. This small station at 2,000 meters elevation was once an important node of the Alishan Forest Railway. The weathered old station sign reading "Shizilu" on the platform speaks of half a century of wind and rain. The old photographs inside the station building showcase the grand scale of timber loading in those days— those black-and-white images let one imagine the thundering trains loaded with dozens of red cypress logs rolling through daily during the peak period.
Fenqihu Old Street Cycling Tour offers a completely different experience. This mountain town old street, called the "Southern Taiwan's Jhufen," is actually more authentic than Jhufen itself. Without excessive commercial packaging, it retains more of the original mountain town character. Cycling through the narrow lanes, you'll encounter the structural details of old wooden houses, traditional rammed-earth dwellings, and businesses run by three generations— all serving as a living architectural museum. Under the century-old Mother Tree of China Fir at the end of the old street is the perfect resting spot.
Practical Cycling Information
Transportation: Take bus 7322 from Chiayi Railway Station or Chiayi High-Speed Rail Station to Chukou. Foldable bicycles can be brought on board. Regular bicycles require advance reservation with Chiayi Bus for dedicated trips, with an additional fee of NT$50.
Road Conditions and Fees: Highway 18 offers good road quality but continuous slopes, so a bike with 21 or more gears is recommended. Admission to the Forest Recreation Area is NT$200 on weekdays and NT$300 on holidays, with half-price admission for students with valid ID. The Tribal Culture Trail has no admission fee, but advance contact with tribal guides is recommended (approximately NT$1,500 per group).
Best Cycling Time: Daily from 8 AM to 2 PM to avoid afternoon mountain fog. Spring and autumn have smaller temperature variations, while summer requires attention to afternoon thunderstorms, and winter at elevations above 1,500 meters may experience frost.
A Thoughtful Reminder for the History and Culture Rider
Bringing along a copy of Taiwan Forestry History or a collection of old photographs will make comparing them with the actual ruins on-site a much more moving experience. Many architectural details from the Japanese colonial period are easy to overlook—pay close attention to the wooden joinery techniques on the eaves and the stone masonry methods.
When cycling through tribal areas, remember that "slow" is the best form of etiquette. Don't rush through and miss the opportunity to chat with tribal elders—their oral histories are often more valuable than any guided tour.
Mobile signals are unreliable in mountain areas, so it's recommended to download offline maps and let your family know your expected return time. Most importantly, the value of these routes lies not in how quickly you complete them, but in how much historical depth you can uncover from them.
