When people think of Jiufen, most picture the Bathhouse scene from Miyazaki's "Spirited Away," but if you visit during the Lantern Festival period, you'll discover this mountain town has an entirely different face—red lanterns spreading along stone steps, ethereal night views of the mountain town paired with fishing boat lights on the distant sea. The Lantern Festival here has an indescribable poetic quality.
While Jiufen's Lantern Festival activities don't match the scale of large light festivals in Taipei or Tainan, its unique mountain terrain and nostalgic atmosphere from the old mining village have attracted many travelers seeking a "deep Spring Festival experience" in recent years. Especially in the area from Shucheng Road to Qingbian Road, the most complete traditional settlement features are preserved, and during the Lantern Festival, shops hang handcrafted lanterns at their doors, creating a beautiful contrast with the warm yellow lights of stone-walled old houses.
If I had to name the biggest highlight of Jiufen's Lantern Festival, I would say it's the "night tour"—there are no flashy tech light displays here; instead, it relies on the atmosphere of the old street itself and the natural mountain-sea scenery. Keelung Mountain is often shrouded in mist during the Lantern Festival period, and combined with the lights of the Jiufen settlement below, from a distance it looks like a floating mountain town in the night sky, quite dreamlike.
Jiufen Old Street (Shucheng Road)
The essential core stretch to walk in Jiufen is Shucheng Road. This steep stone-step road is lined with taro ball shops, tea houses, and souvenir stores. During the Lantern Festival, the atmosphere throughout the entire street is particularly lively, with red traditional paper lanterns extending from one end to the other, forming a strong visual echo with the red-brick old houses on both sides. Many tea houses along the way offer limited-edition Lantern Festival glutinous rice balls or desserts. "A-Mei Tea House" lets you enjoy tea while appreciating the night view, making it a classic way to experience the Jiufen Lantern Festival atmosphere. Most shops here operate from around 10 AM to 8 PM, but arriving after 5 PM is recommended for the best experience—when the sky transitions from blue to dark, the gradual lighting of the lanterns is most beautiful.
Keelung Mountain Viewing Platform
If you want to see the essence of Jiufen's Lantern Festival night, you must head up the mountain. From the old street, following the hiking trail takes about 30 minutes to reach the Keelung Mountain Viewing Platform, which offers the best vantage point overlooking the entire Jiufen settlement and the coastal highway. On Lantern Festival nights, the town lights spread like a starry river all the way to the sea. On clear days, you can even see the ship lights of distant Keelung Harbor. Interestingly, during the Lantern Festival, photography enthusiasts often gather here, waiting for the "golden hour" after nightfall, creating very layered compositions. This spot is open year-round with free admission, but bringing a flashlight is recommended as some sections of the trail are quite dark.
Qingbian Road (Golden Years Coffee)
Qingbian Road is a lesser-known alley in Jiufen, preserving more of the original mining village character. The feature of this road is its relative tranquility, without the crowds of the main old street, making it perfect for a leisurely stroll. During the Lantern Festival, some coffee shops decorate their entrances with small lantern displays. "Golden Years Coffee" is run by a local Jiufen native, and the shop preserves a large collection of early miner life artifacts, along with handmade paper lanterns, creating a very warm atmosphere. Coffee prices here range from NT$120-180, which is reasonable, and they're open until 9 PM—a great choice for those wanting to escape the bustle and enjoy the quiet moments of Lantern Festival night.
Shengping Theater
This theater, built in the 1950s, is the oldest cinema building in Jiufen, with its exterior preserving a traditional Baroque style. During the Lantern Festival, the theater's front plaza is decorated with festive lantern installations, and occasionally classic Taiwanese-language old films are screened, attracting many nostalgic travelers. Though not large in scale, standing in the plaza watching the old theater illuminated at night evokes a sense of time travel. The theater itself is free to visit, but the interior exhibition area may have varying opening hours depending on events.
A-Mei Tea House
Last but not least, A-Mei Tea House must be mentioned—it's considered one of the inspirations for the Bathhouse in "Spirited Away." During the Lantern Festival, the tea house extends its night view viewing hours and offers a limited-edition osmanthus glutinous rice ball tea set. A cup of hot tea, a bowl of handmade glutinous rice balls, paired with the millions of lights of the Jiufen mountain town outside the window—this experience is unique to Jiufen's Lantern Festival. The minimum spending at the tea house is approximately NT$150-200, and there may be queues during peak hours, but for this atmosphere, it's worth the wait.
Transportation & Practical Information
From Taipei, the most convenient way is to take the train to Ruifang Station (about 40 minutes), then walk or transfer to a bus to Jiufen Old Street (about 15 minutes). You can also take bus route 1062 from MRT Zhongxiao Xinsheng Station, which goes directly to Jiufen Old Street with a travel time of about 1 hour. During the Lantern Festival, parking in Ruifang is extremely scarce, so taking public transportation is recommended.
Jiufen Old Street itself is free to enter, with shop purchases varying by establishment. On average, a satisfying meal costs about NT$150-300. The period around the Lantern Festival is peak season in Jiufen, so accommodation should be booked well in advance to avoid sold-out situations.
Travel Tips
Jiufen has many stone steps, so wearing comfortable shoes is recommended. The weather during the Lantern Festival is usually on the cooler side, and the temperature difference on the mountain can exceed 5 degrees, so remember to bring a light jacket. The best time to view Jiufen's night scenery is between 6 PM and 9 PM, which is also when crowds are at their heaviest. If you want to avoid the crowds, consider visiting on a weekday evening, or visit the old street early in the morning and head up the mountain in the late afternoon. Also, shops in Jiufen close relatively early, with most shutting down around 8 PM, so if you want to dine, you need to plan your time accordingly, or choose to stay at a coffee shop until closing. Finally, there are many cats in Jiufen—remember not to feed them randomly, and keep the environment clean so this beautiful mountain town can continue to thrive sustainably.
