When you think of Jiufen, do red lanterns and the old street or taro balls come to mind? The most captivating aspect of this misty mountain city is actually its rain-exclusive side.
Jiufen sees over 200 rainy days annually, with winter迎風面 often shrouded in mist and clouds. That fog enveloping the mountain city creates a vegetarian experience found nowhere else—the humid climate helps mountain vegetables stay fresher longer, and the soft light through the dense mist gives vegetarian dishes more depth. After the crowds dissipate on rainy days, you'll discover the truly local vegetarian landscape.
Many Taipei vegetarian enthusiasts specifically visit Jiufen during the rainy season to avoid the crowds, slowly savoring those seats that are impossible to find on sunny days in the mist.
【Rainy Mountain City's Vegetarian Charm】
Vegetarian culture in Jiufen differs from other tourist areas—most vegetarian shops here weren't created for tourists but serve long-term mountain residents, retired miners, and Zen practitioners. The high altitude (averaging 300-500 meters) and humid environment make vegetable storage in Jiufen more challenging than on flatland, which is exactly why it's more carefully managed—shop owners must descend the mountain early each morning to source ingredients. This "same-day ingredients" tradition has become Jiufen's core competitive advantage.
Another characteristic is the deep integration of tea culture and vegetarian food. Early miners working in damp tunnels needed tea to warm up paired with snacks, which is why teahouse culture took root. Many vegetarian shops in Jiufen still maintain the "tea with vegetarian food" tradition—for example, mushroom soup with high-mountain tea, or taro cake with Iron Goddess tea—a pairing rarely seen on flatland.
【Rainy Day Vegetarian Secret Spots】
Traditional vegetarian stalls under rock awnings
Above the old street sits a row of stalls built along the rock face with rain awnings. They go unnoticed on sunny days, but on rainy days the entire row of red lanterns reflects off the wet stone slabs—Jiufen's most cinematic scene. These stalls typically operate for half a day and close once they sell out. Vegetarian options focus on traditional Fujian vegetarian dishes—fried mushrooms, vegetarian intestines, dried tofu—paired with a bowl of hot noodle soup. At NT$80-120, you can eat quite happily.
Visiting on rainy afternoons is most interesting—when tourists have left, stall owners will chat more freely, sharing vegetarian stories from the mining era.
Vegetarian set meals in misty teahouses
A few untitled, customer-only teahouses in Jiufen offer set menus combining vegetarian food and tea ceremony. These teahouses are usually hidden on second floors or deep in alleyways and don't welcome spontaneous walk-ins. Set menu contents depend on the day's ingredients—could be pickled veggie rice, camellia oil noodles, or mushroom risotto, paired with a pot of local tea estate's winter tea.
Prices range from NT$250-400, somewhat more expensive than tourist shops on the old street, but the tea quality is noticeably different, and there's none of that "being ripped off" feeling common in tourist areas.
Traditional Vegetarian Restaurant on Jishan Street
Jishan Street is the old street's main artery, home to a small restaurant specializing in vegetarian fare. No fancy décor, but it preserves three generations of family recipes. The owner rides a scooter to the Keelung market each morning to shop. Her vegetarian fried rice is flavored with homemade vegetarian pork floss, with rice grains perfectly separated—NT$95 a serving. It's the taste many locals have enjoyed since childhood.
This shop has no sign but is easy to find—homemade dried radish hangs at the entrance. On rainy days, indoor seating is often available, and sitting by the window offers views of the entire sea of clouds.
Vegetarian desserts on rainy afternoons
Most famous taro ball shops in Jiufen offer vegetarian options, but rather than queuing at those popular spots, find a traditional tofu pudding shop hidden in the alleys. The tofu pudding here is handcrafted each night at midnight, with a texture between嫩豆腐 and pudding, paired with old ginger syrup. On rainy days, a bowl warms you from the inside out.
NT$55 per serving—small portion but perfectly seasoned. The owner says his soybeans mainly come from Yunlin, and in recent years, climate change has made summer soybean production unstable, but he refuses to mix in cheap alternatives.
Light Vegetarian Breakfast
If you plan to stay overnight in Jiufen, waking up for breakfast is recommended. Between 6 and 8 AM, before the old street awakens, the mountain city presents a completely different kind of quiet beauty. During this time, a few breakfast shops open, specifically serving locals and early-morning hikers.
Vegetarian breakfast options are simple: vegetarian fried rice, miso soup, pickled egg. If you're lucky, the owner might serve the day's limited handmade vegetarian meat buns. NT$70-90 settles the bill, and the saved time lets you slowly experience Jiufen's morning scenery.
【Practical Information】
Transportation: Take the Taiwan Railway from Taipei to Ruifang Station, then transfer to bus 788 or 1062 to Jiufen Old Street—approximately 15-20 minutes. You can also take bus 953 directly from Keelung. Self-drivers should note that parking near the old street is limited; it's recommended to park at the free lot at the mountain's base and transfer to the shuttle bus.
Costs: Vegetarian dining on the old street ranges from NT$80-400, depending on dining type. Teahouse sets are higher, but most include tea service.
Hours: Most shops open 9 AM to 5-6 PM; on rainy days they may close early or only operate on weekends. It's recommended to avoid the peak hours of 12-14 PM.
Best Season: November to March is the rainy season and when Jiufen's vegetarian experience is most complete. This season sees the fewest tourists on the mountain, shop owners are in better moods, and more willing to chat.
【Mountain City Vegetarian Travel Tips】
Wear non-slip shoes. Jiufen's stone steps become very slippery on rainy days; many tourist falls happen in the narrow alleyways of the old street.
Bring a light jacket. Mountain temperatures are 3-5°C lower than flatland, more noticeable on rainy days.
Bring cash. Many old street shops only accept cash.
Don't just stick to the old street's main avenue—explore the side alleys to discover more family-run vegetarian eateries.
If a shop says "we've run out of ingredients today," move on—this proves they really use same-day fresh ingredients, not leftovers.
Jiufen's rain and mist aren't obstacles—they're this mountain city's gift to those who know how to eat.
