When it comes to Kanazawa, many travelers immediately think of Kenroku-en Garden, the tea district (Nagamachi), and Gold Leaf Museum—these attractions truly represent the essence of Kanazawa's charm. However, if you ask me "Does Kanazawa have hot springs?", I must be honest: the city center itself has no natural hot spring sources. Most travelers choose to stay in the city and then take a day trip to the surrounding "Kaga Onsen Village," enjoying a hot spring excursion that can be completed in a single day. This arrangement, in fact, offers more flexibility than staying in a single hot spring area, and allows visitors to better appreciate the cultural connection between Kanazawa and its hot spring villages.
Located south of Kanazawa in Kaga City, the Kaga Onsen Village comprises four major hot spring areas: Yamashiro Onsen, Yamanaka Onsen, Katayamazu Onsen, and Awazu Onsen—collectively known as "Kaga Hassu" (Eight Hot Springs of Kaga). The history of these hot springs dates back approximately 1,300 years, when Buddhist practitioners are said to have discovered the thermal veins. Later, these springs became therapeutic bathing grounds for Sengoku period warlords such as Toyotomi Hideyoshi. Unlike the outdoor hot springs of Hokkaido or Kyushu, the distinctive feature of Kaga Onsen Village lies in the "interweaving of hot spring culture and traditional craftsmanship"—after bathing, you can stroll through the ancient hot spring streets wearing a yukata (casual kimono), flanked by well-preserved traditional architectures, with the faint aroma of Kaga lacquerware and Kutani ceramics filling the air.
If I were to recommend the most representative hot spring area, I would suggest "Yamashiro Onsen." This is the largest of the Kaga Hassu and the most convenient to access. From Kanazawa Station, take the JR Nanao Line, and after approximately 25 minutes, you'll arrive at Kaga Onsen Station, then transfer to a bus for just 5 minutes. Yamashiro Onsen's source is the famous "sulfur spring," with milky-white waters carrying a subtle sulfur scent that benefits both skin and respiratory health. I recommend the "JR Kanazawa Station Kaga Tour Bus" day pass, which allows you to explore the main attractions of Kaga Onsen Village for just 1,500 yen, eliminating the hassle of transfers.
If you are a "spa and cuisine" enthusiast, "Yamanaka Onsen" might be more suitable. The hot spring here is a "sodium chloride spring," known for its excellent moisturizing properties, leaving your skin particularly smooth after soaking. The hot spring street of Yamanaka Onsen retains the atmosphere of the Edo period. I particularly recommend visiting during evening hours, when the setting sun elongates the shadows of the old houses, and fewer tourists create an enchanting ambiance. Nearby, there is a restaurant called "Moritsubo," specializing in creative cuisine using local Kaga ingredients. The lunch set menu costs approximately 2,000-2,500 yen and is worth trying.
The highlight of "Katayamazu Onsen" is its lakeside scenery. Located near Lake Shibayama, the end of the hot spring street leads directly to the lake shore, where on clear days you can see the mountains reflected in the water's surface. Katayamazu Onsen's waters are rich in sodium bicarbonate, particularly effective for joint and muscle pain. If you wish to experience the "mixed bathing" culture, Katayamazu Onsen's "Onsen Moto" offers gender-separated outdoor baths as well as a mixed bath called "Bijo no Yu" (Beautiful Woman's Bath), which foreign visitors can use freely (though please observe local etiquette).
The final recommendation is "Awazu Onsen," which is the farthest from Kanazawa but also the most tranquil. The distinctive feature of Awazu Onsen is its "Zen atmosphere"—the surroundings near the Hot Spring Temple evoke the feeling of Arashiyama in Kyoto. Awazu Onsen's "Hoshi Onsen" is one of the oldest hot spring inns in Japan, established in 717 CE. The current building was reconstructed during the Edo period and retains traditional beams and courtyards. The price for one night with two meals (Accommodations) ranges from approximately 15,000-25,000 yen, which is mid-to-high range among Kaga Onsen Village establishments. However, the experience is truly unique—you can soak in hot springs with 1,300 years of history and feel the weight of time.
In terms of practical information, the main way to reach Kaga Onsen Village from Kanazawa Station is via the JR Nanao Line. Regular tickets cost approximately 500-700 yen one-way, with a travel time of 25-40 minutes. If you prefer a more leisurely journey, you can take the Kaga Tour Bus with a day pass of 1,500 yen, allowing free movement among the four hot spring areas. As for hot spring facilities, a single admission (pay bath) typically costs between 500-1,000 yen, with some facilities offering added services for towels and toiletries (approximately 200-300 yen extra). Most facilities are open from 6 AM to 10 PM. I recommend avoiding the peak hours between 5-7 PM, when local residents tend to visit more.
Finally, a few tips: First, the peak seasons for Kaga Onsen Village are spring and autumn, especially November during the autumn foliage season—the hot spring streets offer breathtaking scenery, but room rates may increase by 30%-50%. For a less crowded experience, winter months from January to February can provide pleasant surprises, with some hot springs offering "snow-viewing hot spring" package tours. Second, although Kanazawa itself has no natural hot springs, several high-end facilities in the city have imported waters from Kaga Onsen Village—for example, "Kanazawa Onsen" near the station costs 800 yen for a single visit and can serve as an alternative when there's no time to visit the onsen village. Third, while the reduction in Chinese tourists has made reservations at hot spring inns easier, I should note: starting in 2025, the Japanese government is promoting "hot spring tourism digitalization," and some facilities may require reservations through mobile apps in the future. I recommend checking the official websites before your trip.
The combination of Kanazawa and Kaga Onsen Village is the kind of travel experience that "can only be fully appreciated by slowing down." Skip the rushed itinerary—take an afternoon to depart from Kanazawa, stroll through the hot spring streets, soak in the waters, enjoy local cuisine, then return to Kanazawa to continue exploring. This is the proper rhythm for traveling through an ancient capital.
