When it comes to Portuguese cuisine in Macau, most people instinctively think of the tourist restaurants around Senado Square. However, the truly authentic flavors are actually hidden in Coloane. This former fishing village on the sea has preserved Macau's last remaining tranquility and simplicity, and it is also where the Portuguese immigrant community put down roots, creating a dining scene that is completely different from the tourist areas.
A notable feature of the Portuguese restaurants in Coloane is that they don't have impressive storefronts—many small establishments are tucked away on the ground floor of village houses, making them easy to miss for those unfamiliar with the area. These family-run taverns, operated by Macanese or Portuguese expatriates, have preserved family recipes passed down for three or four decades. Their cooking methods have not been adjusted to cater to tourists and still adhere to traditional practices. The most obvious difference is reflected in the price—for the same dish of Portuguese roast suckling pig, Coloane restaurants often charge only one-third or even less than what five-star hotels in Cotai charge.
Bacalhau balls are a must-order classic appetizer at every table. The bacalhau balls in Coloane differ from those elsewhere: they use cod that has been salted for over a year, hand-shredded and mixed with mashed potatoes and herbs, then deep-fried until the exterior is golden and crispy while the inside remains creamy with a slight texture. Many old establishments start making their bacalhau balls at 4 AM to ensure the texture is dry enough without any fishy taste. This seemingly simple dish actually tests the restaurant's skill in handling salted fish.
Another dish worth trying is grilled sardines. The Portuguese call it "seafood for the poor," but it is a daily staple in Coloane's fishing village. The traditional method simply involves marinating whole sardines in coarse sea salt, then grilling them over charcoal until the skin is slightly charred while the flesh remains moist without drying out. Served with a slice of lemon and olive oil, the squeezed acidic aroma perfectly balances the fish's oiliness. Dining at the outdoor seaside seating in Coloane offers a special atmosphere—you can see the skyline of Cotai's casinos in the distance, while closer by lies the tranquil harbor with fishing boats moored. This contrast between old and new cannot be found anywhere else.
Portuguese seafood rice is also worth trying. The authentic preparation uses a cast-iron pot to simmer the rice with fresh seafood such as shrimp, clams, mussels, and white clams. The rice grains absorb the seafood broth while maintaining a chewy texture. Unlike the wet and soft style of Spanish paella, this is Macau's unique "Portuguese version"—with lighter seasoning that relies on the seafood's natural sweetness to build depth.
Here are some recommended Portuguese restaurants in Coloane that we have personally tested:
The first one is "孖寶兄弟" (Ma Bao Brothers), located opposite the "Coloane Bakery" (路環碼頭麵包店). The address is 1A President António Ramalho Eanes Square (恩尼斯總統前地). The owners are two brothers—the older brother runs the kitchen, while the younger brother handles front-of-house procurement. This restaurant has no printed menu; instead, they handwrite the daily specials on the wall. A portion of bacalhau balls costs MOP $28, with portions that are far more generous than chain tea restaurants. The owner chats with customers in somewhat broken Cantonese, and sometimes treats them to a small glass of homemade Portuguese Port wine. It is recommended to avoid the休息 time between 2 PM and 4 PM, as the owner closes after lunch service.
The second is a branch of "協記" (Heang Kee), located on Rua da Babaú (荔枝碗路) called "協記葡國餐" (Heang Kee Portuguese Restaurant). The owner is a third-generation Macanese, with the walls covered with family vintage photos, including old images of Coloane's pier from the 1970s. Their Portuguese roast suckling pig is limited to a few portions daily—MOP $168 for half a pig—with skin as crispy as a biscuit but without cutting the mouth, and meat so tender it can be cut with a fork. Reservations must be made one day in advance, otherwise it sells out before 6 PM. Braised oxtail is another signature dish—MOP $88 for a small pot, slowly baked in red wine and tomato sauce for three hours until it melts in your mouth, and it is a must-order for many regular customers.
The third is "明記咖啡" (Meng Kee Coffee), located near "芬蘭烘焙屋" (Finnish Bakery). Technically a coffee and light bites café, it makes Portuguese egg tarts that many locals consider the best in Coloane. The pastry is so flaky that it crumbles when picked up, while the egg custard is rich in milk flavor without being overly sweet. One costs MOP $8, and they frequently sell out during afternoon tea time. This shop opens at 7 AM, and nearby office workers come for a coffee and a Portuguese egg tart for breakfast, creating the most authentic local scene.
The fourth is an unmarked shop directly across from "São Francisco Xavier Church" (聖方濟各教堂). There is no English signage at the entrance, only a hand-written Portuguese wooden sign that reads "Casa de Fumeiro." The owner is an immigrant from northern Portugal, specializing in Portuguese smoked sausage and air-dried beef served with homemade bread. The smoked sausage uses traditional smoking methods—slowly smoked with firewood in the shop for three days, then sliced and served with olive oil and garlic bread, making it a perfect pairing for drinks. A set with drinks starts at MOP $65. Sitting on the small platform outside, you can also see the church's stone brick walls.
If you want to sample a variety of small plates in one go, you can go to the outdoor seating area of "輝記海鮮" (Fai Kee Seafood)—although its main business is seafood daipaidong, they also offer Portuguese-style small plates such as grilled sardines and pepper salt shrimp, with prices lower than specialized Portuguese restaurants. A satisfying meal costs around MOP $80-120 per person. The seafood is all freshly caught—you can see live shrimp and fish in the freezers.
Regarding practical information, there are two main ways to get to Coloane: first, walk or cycle from Cotai Strip (路凼連貫公路), along the waterfront promenade, which takes about 25 minutes on foot; second, take a bus—routes 21A, 26A, and 50 all go to Coloane town center, with a flat fare of MOP $6, payable with Macau Pass (澳門通) or cash. If departing from the Macau Peninsula, you can first take bus 15 to Cotai, then transfer to the above routes. The walking route from Cotai Strip to Coloane passes through wetland ecology, and with some luck, you can see egrets. For travelers wanting to avoid the crowds at the casinos, this journey itself is an experience.
Regarding business hours, most restaurants in Coloane operate in two shifts—lunch is served from 12 PM to 2 PM, after which they close until 5 PM when they reopen. The dinner peak is between 7 PM and 9 PM, so it is recommended to arrive during this time. Many restaurants are closed on Wednesdays, so it is best to confirm before your visit.
A few tips: First, it is common for restaurants in Coloane not to accept reservations, especially family-run establishments, so queuing on site is the norm. Second, payment methods are not as diversified as in Cotai—many old shops only accept cash, so it is recommended to prepare in advance. Third, prices in Coloane are relatively affordable—a meal costs around MOP $60-150 per person and can be quite filling. However, to save money, morning coffee shops are the most economical choice. Fourth, sunny days in Coloane offer the most beautiful sea views; during the rainy season (May to September), seaside seating may be affected, so it is recommended to check the weather forecast when planning your itinerary. Fifth, the square in front of São Francisco Xavier Church hosts a market on weekends, selling handicrafts and local agricultural products. If timing allows, you can also visit the market.
Overall, the Portuguese cuisine in Coloane is not the kind of trendy restaurant that media outlets would chase for coverage—it is an old place that tells its story through flavor and price. If you have already explored the buffet restaurants in Cotai and the famous establishments around Senado Square, give yourself an afternoon to come to Coloane, enjoy a cup of coffee and a plate of bacalhau balls, and gaze at the Cotai skyline in the distance. This will be a completely different Macau experience.
Macau Key Data
Macau 2023: 28.7M visitors, GGR MOP 183.6B, 22 UNESCO monuments, 14 Michelin stars (2024).
| Indicator | Data | Source |
|---|---|---|
| Visitors | 28.7M | MGTO |
| GGR | MOP 183.6B | DICJ |
| UNESCO | 22 | UNESCO |
| Michelin | 14 | Michelin |
