The Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage: How a 1,200 km Sacred Route Became the Essence of Japanese Spiritual Culture

Overview: A Spiritual Journey Spanning More Than 1,200 Years

Between the rugged mountains and the coastline of Shikoku Island in Japan, there is a sacred route that has continued for more than 1,200 years — the Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage. This circular path crosses four prefectures (Tokushima, Kochi, Ehime, Kagawa), connecting 88 temples that enshrine the sacred sites of Kobo Daishi Kukai, for a total length of about 1,200 km.

Each year, about 200,000 people set out on this journey — on foot, by bicycle, or by car. They wear white robes, carry the kongotsue (vajra staff), and don the sugegasa (sedge hat). This attire is not simply clothing but a declaration of faith: "Dogyo Ninin", the pilgrim is never alone, for Kobo Daishi walks together with them.

Kobo Daishi Kukai: The Spiritual Source of the Pilgrimage

Kobo Daishi Kukai (774-835), posthumously titled Henjo Kongo, was the founder of the Shingon school. He was born into an aristocratic family in Sanuki, Shikoku (modern-day Kagawa Prefecture); a prodigious reader from childhood, in his youth he travelled to Chang'an in Tang China to study Esoteric Buddhism under Master Huiguo. After returning to Japan he founded the Shingon school and built Kongobuji at Mount Koya as its head monastery.

Kukai was not only a religious figure. He was also a calligrapher (the Japanese proverb "Even Kobo can make a mistake with his brush" refers to him), an engineer (he repaired the Manno Pond irrigation system), and an educator (he founded Shugei Shuchi-in, Japan's first educational institution open to commoners). He left an extraordinary number of sacred sites of practice and temple foundation across Shikoku, and later generations followed in his footsteps, giving rise to the prototype of the pilgrimage.

The Spiritual Geography of the Four Prefectures: Hosshin, Shugyo, Bodai, Nehan

The pilgrimage is divided by prefecture, and each section has its own spiritual meaning:

• Tokushima Prefecture (Temples 1-23) — Dojo of Hosshin (Awakening of Faith): The starting section of the journey, symbolising "hosshin" — the resolve to undertake the pilgrimage. Temple 1, Ryozenji, is the traditional starting point, and mountain temples such as Kongochoji test the resolve of body and mind.
• Kochi Prefecture (Temples 24-39) — Dojo of Shugyo (Ascetic Training): The longest section of the four prefectures (about 400 km), running along the Pacific coast and symbolising the hardship of practice. Hotsumisakiji (Temple 24) at Cape Muroto and Kongofukuji (Temple 38) at Cape Ashizuri are two major landmarks.
• Ehime Prefecture (Temples 40-65) — Dojo of Bodai (Enlightenment): The cluster of mountain temples around Mount Ishizuchi (Shikoku's highest peak) symbolises the arrival of awakening. Dogo Onsen is within this prefecture, and many pilgrims pause here to rest and recover.
• Kagawa Prefecture (Temples 66-88) — Dojo of Nehan (Nirvana): The final section, symbolising liberation. Okuboji (Temple 88) is the traditional end point, the place of "kechigan" where the pilgrimage is completed.

"Dogyo Ninin": The Heart of Pilgrimage Philosophy

The most fundamental spiritual concept in pilgrimage culture is "Dogyo Ninin" (どうぎょうににん) — the pilgrim never walks alone, for Kobo Daishi Kukai always walks together with them. This belief is expressed in every detail of the pilgrim's outfit:

• Hakui (white robe): Symbolising purity, and also representing readiness to face death at any moment (the white robe is originally funerary attire). The pilgrim sets out with the resolve of one prepared for death.
• Kongotsue (vajra staff): Regarded as the embodiment of Kobo Daishi. The pilgrim places it by the pillow at night and tends to it before each meal.
• Sugegasa (sedge hat): Inscribed with a poem attributed to Kukai: "Lost, the three worlds are a fortress; awakened, the ten directions are empty. Originally there is no east or west — where then is south or north?"
• Osamefuda (offering slips): Wooden slips deposited at each temple, recording the pilgrim's name, address, and prayer. The slips of pilgrims who have walked the route for decades turn black.

The Culture of Osettai: The Selfless Devotion of Shikoku's Residents

What most often moves outsiders in pilgrimage culture is "Osettai" — Shikoku's local residents spontaneously offer food, drink, lodging, and even money to pilgrims, asking nothing in return. This tradition originates from the teachings of Kobo Daishi and reflects the respect the people of Shikoku hold for pilgrims.

Pilgrims who receive osettai typically present an osamefuda (pilgrim name slip) as a token of thanks. A black osamefuda (presented by pilgrims who have completed the route more than fifty times) is regarded as a precious protective talisman.

The Modern Pilgrimage: From Religious Devotion to Cultural Tourism

As times have changed, so has the make-up of pilgrims. Early pilgrims were mostly devotees seeking healing or praying for the deceased; today the motivations of modern pilgrims are far more diverse:

• Spiritual practice and self-discovery (a substantial share)
• A commemorative journey after retirement
• Cultural experience for foreign travellers (the share of foreign pilgrims is rising year by year)
• A healing journey for cancer survivors or those at major turning points in life

At peak times, more than 200,000 people complete the route annually, of which about 3,000-5,000 walk the full route — a journey requiring 40 to 60 days. Many more complete the route in stages, sometimes over several years or even decades.

UNESCO Inscription: The Next Step on the Global Heritage Stage

The bid by the Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage for UNESCO World Cultural Heritage status is one of the most closely watched Japanese cultural developments of recent years. The application is being jointly advanced by the four prefectures and emphasises the cross-regional character of the pilgrimage, its living transmission over more than a millennium, and the intangible cultural value represented by "Osettai".

The Japanese government has completed preparation of the nomination dossier. If successfully inscribed, the pilgrimage will become Japan's second UNESCO-listed pilgrimage route after the Kumano Kodo (2004).

Dogo Onsen: A Resting Sanctuary for Pilgrims

Located in Matsuyama, Ehime Prefecture, Dogo Onsen is one of Japan's oldest hot springs. The current main building dates from 1894 (Meiji 27); its impressive three-storey wooden structure is designated as a national Important Cultural Property. Many pilgrims stop here to rest their weary feet.

The Dogo Onsen Honkan is undergoing conservation works (since 2023), with partial reopening planned for 2024 as careful restoration extends the life of this precious historic building.

Kochi Castle and Sakamoto Ryoma: Historical Sites Along the Pilgrim Route

Kochi Prefecture, which the pilgrimage crosses, is rich not only in temples but also in samurai history. Kochi Castle (around Temples 24-39) is one of Japan's twelve surviving original tenshu (donjon) and was built in 1749 (Enbo era) as the residence of the Yamauchi clan of Tosa Domain.

More importantly, Kochi is the birthplace of Sakamoto Ryoma (1836-1867). Ryoma was a pivotal figure in the Meiji Restoration, brokering the Satsuma-Choshu Alliance and drafting the "Senchu Hassaku" (Eight-Point Plan from the Ship), laying the foundation for the birth of modern Japan. The Sakamoto Ryoma Memorial Museum in Kochi City is an important cultural attraction along the Shikoku pilgrimage route.

Frequently Asked Questions

Data Sources

• Shikoku Reijokai (official site of the Association of Shikoku 88 Temples)
• Ehime Prefectural Government — UNESCO inscription initiative
• Agency for Cultural Affairs of Japan — Maintenance and Preservation of Pilgrimage Routes Programme