Cheung Chau – who would have thought – is actually one of the first islands in Hong Kong to be featured in the Michelin Street Food Guide. After exploring so many places in search of good food, my favorite remains Cheung Chau – because the food here isn't the kind of "tourist-trap" packaged stuff, but rather fresh catches hauled in by fishermen in the early morning, and silky tofu pudding made by the owner who gets up every day at dawn to grind the mountain water soybeans.
Cheung Chau itself is a small, ancient fishing village island, with an area of just 2.4 square kilometers but a population of several tens of thousands. It's already quite lively on regular days, and becomes absolutely packed on weekends. Since it's geographically separated from the city and the ferry ride takes nearly half an hour, most food businesses here are run by dedicated people committed to staying in Cheung Chau for the long haul – unlike in the city where shops can close down after ripping off a few customers. You ask me why I say this? Because although recent years have seen an influx of tourists and some rents have increased significantly, there are still a group of old-established shops holding firm – so I'm documenting them for everyone.
【Special Highlights】
Cheung Chau's street food has three treasures: fish balls, glutinous rice cakes, and seafood. These three items have earned their reputation not only because the ingredients are fresh, but also because the masters here really make everything by hand – unlike chain stores where everything is machine-made.
The first treasure is naturally the fish balls – but these fish balls are completely different from the canned stuff you get elsewhere. The fish balls in Cheung Chau are made fresh daily: after mackerel or yellow croaker are caught, they're immediately ground into fish paste and hand-pressed into pellets. The springy, chewy texture is on a completely different level from the "texture" you normally experience. And many of the broths are simmered from fish bones for hours – one sip and you can tell it's the real deal.
The second treasure is the glutinous rice cake – there are a few shops in Cheung Chau selling these, one of which has been passed down for two generations. The master makes the rice skin by hand every day, with the filling of peanuts and sesame seeds stir-fried until fragrant. The portions are double the size of what you'd find elsewhere, and you can get one for $10-$15, or stuff yourself for under $20.
The third treasure is seafood – you might say "mainland tourists are the ones who eat seafood," but I'm telling you, Hong Kong's seafood is already cheaper than many places, and the seafood shops here offer plenty of choices: from steamed seasonal fish to garlic steamed local razor clams, the value for money is exceptional. So if you ask me where you can find the most "Cheung Chau-flavored" street food – I'd say they're all concentrated along Dong Tan Road and the waterfront area right after you exit the Cheung Chau ferry pier. Walk that loop and you can eat from morning till night.
【Recommended Places】(Arranged by Geographic Location)
1. 【Dong Jin Fish Balls】$12-$18 per box (small) / $20-$25 (large)
Address: 12 Dong Jin Road, Cheung Chau (near the pier)
This place has been open for over 20 years in Cheung Chau. The boss starts making fish paste at 5 AM every day – and I mean hand-pounded fish balls. If you look into the kitchen, you'll see them using a big stone chopping board in that specific stance – completely different from the machine-made products at chain stores. Their curry fish balls are my favorite – the curry sauce is homemade with a bit of a kick, and when you bite into it, the fish flavor explodes. I tried them with a friend from Guangzhou, and she said "Wow, now THIS is what fish balls should be like." Look, if you're used to frozen fish balls from the supermarket, this one will completely redefine your concept of fish balls. But a heads up: they normally open at 7 AM and sell out quickly – so plan your visit accordingly.
2. 【Wan Mama Glutinous Rice Cake】$10-$15 per piece / $25 for 3
Address: 28 San Heng Street, Cheung Chau (beside the traditional market)
This shop is run by just one sister and has been passed down for two generations. The rice skin is made using the traditional method – freshly ground from a mix of rice flour and glutinous rice, not the pre-mixed powder used elsewhere. The peanut and sesame filling is extremely generous – each piece is stuffed to bursting, and the soft, sticky texture as it gently grips your teeth – that's what I call "actually eating glutinous rice cake." Most importantly, the prices are incredibly affordable – as low as $10 ($0.50 is basically nothing), and the three-piece set is just $25, truly a model of Cheung Chau's budget-friendly pricing. I'd recommend going early – they often sell out by 3 PM because they're so popular.
3. 【Kang Ji Seafood】Approx. HK$80-$150 per person (varies)
Address: Sai Wan Road, Cheung Chau (near the Tin Hau Temple)
If you ask me where to find the "best value seafood" in Cheung Chau, it's this place. The shop isn't big – just a few small tables – but the ingredients really take advantage of being by the sea – their seafood is supplied directly by fishing boats from the other side, without going through lengthy cold storage logistics. Recommended dishes include: stir-fried clams in black bean sauce ($45 per portion, market price), steamed grouper (market price, approximately $80-$120), and poached shrimp ($50). Actually, I think the best thing here is the "seafood soup" – made by boiling fish heads and bones until the broth is crystal clear – you won't want to let go. At these prices and quality, you simply can't find this in the city. One tip: these shops tend to have the freshest offerings in the evening, so I'd recommend going at night.
4. 【Choi Kee Tea Restaurant】Set meals $35-$55
Address: Tai San Street, Cheung Chau (opposite the Central Ferry Pier)
This is a typical Cheung Chau tea restaurant – not fine dining, but the food has very local flavors. Their char siu egg rice (or "char siu fried egg rice") goes for $38, made using local methods: the eggs are made to order with runny yolks, and the char siu is homemade rather than supplied by some central factory. Their Hong Kong-style milk tea is also good – these small details are what really test a tea restaurant's level. What's more, the location is super convenient – just 30 seconds from the pier. So if you're short on time and want to grab a quick bite, this is definitely the top choice.
5. 【Su Kee Dessert Shop】$15-$25 per bowl
Address: San Heng Street, Cheung Chau (near the school)
If you ask me what the "most hidden but best" thing in Cheung Chau is – I'd say it's Su Ki's tofu pudding. Their tofu pudding is made from soybeans and seawater (Cheung Chau's local seawater and rock water quality is considered quite good), with a smoothness that reaches professional standards – completely free of that "factory taste" you'd get from chain stores. The key is their sugar control – not too sweet, not bland at all – truly embodying the term "old-school craftsmanship." Top recommendations: red bean tofu pudding ($18), steamed milk pudding with fresh milk ($22). For just $20, you can get a bowl of Chinese dessert made with genuine heart – how's that for value?
【Practical Information】
【How to Get There】
Method 1 (Most Common): Take the high-speed ferry from Pier 5 in Central, journey takes about 35-40 minutes, standard class fare $14.5 (($22 on Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays), deluxe class is about $3-$5 more. High-speed ferry schedule is normally: every 30 minutes, and they're completely packed on weekends and holidays – I recommend booking in advance.
Method 2 (Slower Ferry): Take the regular ferry from Pier 6 in Central, journey takes about 55 minutes to 1 hour. The advantages are cheaper fares and fewer people, but you need to allow more time.
Method 3 (Holiday Special Routes): On certain days there are express routes from Tsuen Wan or other piers, but the schedule is less frequent – I'd recommend checking the Kowloon Motor Bus website before your trip.
Overall, if you want to "avoid the crowds," the best way is – "go on a weekday morning."
【Estimated Costs】
Cheung Chau street food spending: $15-$50 can cover a meal (e.g., fish balls + glutinous rice cake + a drink = $45);
If you want a seafood feast across the water: $80-$150 per person (more than enough);
Even adding dessert to the bill comes to around $70 – overall 30%-40% cheaper than in the city.
【Opening Hours】
Shops on the island normally operate as follows:
- Traditional breakfast stalls: 7:00am-10:00am
- Snacks/Fish ball shops: 10:00am-6:00pm (most close when sold out)
- Seafood restaurants: 11:30am-10:00pm
- Dessert shops: 12:00nn-9:00pm
【Travel Tips】
1. 【Avoid Peak Times】Cheung Chau is extremely crowded on Saturdays and Sundays, especially the lines are longest between 2-5 PM. Want to avoid queuing? Go on a weekday before 10 AM, or after 5 PM (ferry companies usually have boats around 8-9 PM at night).
2. 【Bring Cash】Many traditional old shops here don't accept Octopus or credit cards, especially the smaller snack stalls which are cash only – bringing $300-$500 is advisable.
3. 【Wear Comfortable Shoes】The roads in Cheung Chau aren't too difficult to navigate, but there are many slopes and you'll be walking around to find food – wearing a comfortable pair of shoes is important. Cheung Chau's specialty is that you have to walk to find the just-right food.
4. 【Check the Weather】If Typhoon Signal No. 8 is hoisted, all ferry services suspend – Cheung Chau becomes an isolated island. Be sure to check the Observatory's forecast before you set off.
5. 【Bring an Eco Bag】Environmental awareness in Cheung Chau has improved in recent years – most snack stalls now practice "take your own trash" principles, so bringing eco bags and tissues will be convenient.
Cheung Chau's Michelin street food may not be as fancy as what you'd find in the city, but that's precisely what makes it special – fresh catches, additive-free glutinous rice skin, and the warm hospitality of the owners. That's why the food here truly represents "Hong Kong flavor." If you want to get away for the weekend but don't want to go as far as Lantau Island, Cheung Chau is definitely the best choice for a day trip.
