When it comes to Sai Kung, most people immediately think of "Seafood Street"—a short waterfront road with two rows of water tanks displaying Canadian crabs and Japanese oysters. However, if you only know how to visit that area for the market, you might actually be missing Sai Kung's true flavor.
What makes Sai Kung so special? Unlike traditional urban areas, it's far from the city center, featuring mountains, sea, and indigenous New Territories villages. In recent years, it has become an extremely mixed community due to the large number of expats living there. When you ask local residents "what to eat in Sai Kung," nine out of ten will say "it's hard to say nowadays" and start listing—Thai shops, Indian cafes, Japanese cafés. But if you ask them about "shops they've eaten at since childhood," that's when you discover the dai pai dong memories that truly belong to Sai Kung.
==Special Highlights==
Sai Kung's dai pai dong culture is different from what you see in urban areas. Traditionally known as "market days," during festivals or Sundays, residents from surrounding villages would come to trade food and goods, and temporary food stalls would naturally gather in nearby open spaces. By the 2020s, large-scale market activities have diminished, but several unique forms remain:
The first type is "Waterfront Dai Pai Dong." The stretch along the waterfront park isn't technically a proper dai pai dong—it's actually food stalls with snack permits, selling fish balls, siu mai, and curry fish balls. Prices are affordable—fish balls typically cost HK$8-12—and the advantage is the location right opposite the typhoon shelter full of fishing boats. Enjoying the view while eating makes it worth the price.
The second type is "Neighborhood Cha Chaan Teng." These aren't what tourists consider "Sai Kung's selling point," but they represent local daily life. These shops are usually located inside old village houses or street-level shops, operating for fifteen to twenty years, where the staff and elderly regulars know your name. The food served—SPAM and egg sandwiches, milk tea, char siu chicken rice—is completely different from chain restaurant standardized formulas, with their own recipes and human touch.
The third type, emerging in recent years, is "Exotic Small Shops." Due to the large number of expat professionals and retired foreigners settling in Sai Kung, many Thai, Italian, and Mexican establishments have appeared. Some are quite serious, and many foreigners who visit give high praise, saying it's "better than Central." These aren't traditional dai pai dong, but as part of the Sai Kung community, they reflect the area's transformation.
==Recommended Places==
【Victory Roasted Meat & Tea Restaurant】
One of Sai Kung's old-school cha chaan teng, located near the Sai Kung Rural Committee in the town center. The shop has been open for over twenty years, with 1990s-style booth seating still intact, giving it a strong sense of history. Their char siu chicken rice is quite famous—the chicken stays tender, especially the thigh, served with homemade sauce and a few pieces of pickled radish, satisfying for under HK$30. The milk tea is authentic silk stocking milk tea with a strong tea flavor, balanced perfectly with condensed milk sweetness. If you want to try "Sai Kung's original flavors," this can be your starting point.
Hours: 6am to 9pm (closed Mondays)
Address: Near Po Tong Street in Sai Kung town center (locals know the exact location)
Price: Main dishes HK$25-40, snacks HK$8-15
Best for: Breakfast, lunch, those wanting to experience a real neighborhood shop
【Kwan Kee Bamboo Noodle Shop】
Another established old shop specializing in bamboo noodles. Bamboo noodles are made by pressing dough with a bamboo pole, giving them a particularly chewy and firm texture—nothing like regular alkaline noodles. Their wonton noodles are popular—the wontons are small but flavorful, and both the noodles and soup have their own distinctive style, not mass-produced. Prices are ten to twenty percent lower than similar urban shops, offering good value.
Best for: Those wanting traditional Cantonese noodles, or those interested in the traditional craft of bamboo noodles
【Thai Thai Classic】
A Thai food shop in Sai Kung, run by a Thai woman who married and moved to Hong Kong, serving homemade Thai comfort food. Their Padang Curry and Thai milk tea have good reputations—nearly every expat in the area has tried them. If you want a change of pace, this shop proves Sai Kung isn't just about traditional Hong Kong food.
Price: HK$50-80 per person
Best for: Trying exotic flavors, or bringing foreign friends to experience Sai Kung's diversity
【Waterfront Snack Stalls】
Located near the pier at the waterfront park, these vendor stalls sell fish balls, siu mai, curry fish balls, fried dough sticks, and rice puddings. Prices are very affordable—fish balls for HK$10—their advantage is the excellent view: looking at the typhoon shelter full of fishing boats, creating a stark contrast with the seafood restaurants nearby: on one side, childhood memories for a few dozen dollars; on the other, tourist set menus for a few hundred. The existence of these snack stalls reminds you that Sai Kung was once a simple fishing village.
Best for: Any time, wanting snacks, sea breeze, and watching the boats
【Mongolian BBQ Station】 (Recent Addition)
These aren't traditional dai pai dong but a recent light meal concept—located in the corner of the food court near Sai Kung New Town Plaza (the former Sai Kung town center mall). They offer Mongolian BBQ buffet style. Usually for HK$60-80, you can have unlimited vegetables and meat—fill your plate and the owner will stir-fry it for you. It's a quick, cheap, and filling option. The emergence of these shops reflects another aspect of Sai Kung's dining scene—not traditional, perhaps without distinct "Sai Kung characteristics," but meeting modern people's needs.
Best for: Hungry but don't want to wait, want a quick bite
==Practical Information==
【How to Get There】
Most convenient: Take the MTR to Diamond Hill Station and transfer to bus 92, or from Choi Hung Station Exit C2 take a direct minibus; typical journey time from the city is 30-45 minutes.
If you have a car: There are several public car parks in Sai Kung, with parking near the Sai Kung market, but they fill up easily on weekends.
【Is It Expensive?】
The dining options here are quite extreme: on one side, seafood restaurants where per-person spending easily reaches HK$300-500; on the other, old neighborhood cha chaan teng where HK$25-40 gets you a full meal. Snack stalls are cheapest—HK$10-20 fills your stomach. Overall, if you avoid Seafood Street and choose other options, spending is comparable to or slightly lower than similar city establishments.
【Best Time to Visit】
Weekday afternoons are quietest; weekends and public holidays are "battlegrounds"—the crowds on the street can be shocking. If you want a peaceful breakfast or afternoon tea, weekdays or weekend mornings around 8-9am are the best times. The waterfront at dusk is wonderful—Victoria Harbour's eastern waters as the sun sets, no ticket needed, and best of all, free.
【Notes】
Like other places, Sai Kung's shops have experienced cycles of "closing" and "changing hands" in recent years, especially after the pandemic. Some old shops have disappeared, but new business models have emerged. It's recommended to look around more before going, or ask locals upon arrival—the most reliable method is always "keep asking."
Also, the news about Seafood Street's wild aquatic creatures misleading tourists is no secret. If you really want to eat seafood, remember three things: 1) Clarify prices before ordering; 2) Don't expect miraculous cheap deals; 3) Actually, even locals of similar age will say—"If I want seafood, I'd rather go to Tai Po or Lau Fau Shan." This insider knowledge is only known to old residents.
==Travel Tips==
If it's your first time visiting Sai Kong and you want to experience its most authentic side, my personal recommendation is: First, have breakfast at Victory or Kwan Kee to feel the neighborhood morning atmosphere; then walk to the waterfront to watch the fishing boats and eat some fish balls; at noon, try Thai Thai or other international home cooking; return to the waterfront at dusk to watch the sunset—this covers Sai Kung's blend of old and new.
Finally, a word to everyone: Sai Kung's charm isn't about "attractions," but "atmosphere." Unlike Mong Kok or Causeway Bay with their clear "shopping to do" purpose, Sai Kung's value lies in—you can see another side of Hong Kong, a community that stays far from the city yet maintains its own pace. If you've visited Hong Kong several times and are tired of the usual hotspots, looking for something different, Sai Kung is worth spending a day.
