When most visitors think of Jiufen, the first thing that comes to mind is Hayao Miyazaki's Spirited Away—the inspiration for Bathhouse Lady Yubaba—and the stone-stepped old street built along the mountain. However, if you come expecting to "go department store shopping," you may be disappointed—Jiufen's mountain town simply doesn't have large chain department stores. This isn't because Jiufen is behind the times; rather, this mountain town at approximately 400 meters altitude originally developed as a small commercial area centered around mining settlements, preserving the unique character of the traditional 'mountain community commercial district.'
Rather than "department stores," Jiufen's shop landscape is better described as a collection of "unique specialty stores." Every corner holds a surprise, and each shop has its own distinct story. This decentralized business model is precisely what makes shopping in Jiufen so captivating.
【Unique Highlights】The Distinctive Value of Shopping in Jiufen
Unlike traditional department stores, Jiufen's shops present several distinctive characteristics:
First, "one floor, one shop" independence. Almost every building on the main old street operates as an independent business space, run by different shop owners. This allows each store to maintain its own style without following standardized department store display logic. Teahouses have their elegance, craft shops their character, cafés their ambiance.
Second, the pre-WWII to 1980s mining village commercial ecosystem continues to thrive. Jiufen reached its peak during the 1920s gold mining boom, then declined as the veins were depleted. However, in the 1980s, films like City of Sadness and Spirited Away brought renewed fame. Many of today's shops are family businesses passed down through generations, or attract artistic talents who have settle here, presenting a unique blend of old and new.
Third, tourist-friendly yet requires respect for local life. Unlike purely tourist-oriented night market districts, Jiufen still has local residents living here. On weekday afternoons when fewer tourists visit, you can experience this tranquility; however, weekend crowds have also sparked resident backlash against overtourism.
【Recommended Spots】Five Unique Shops
1."A-Mei Teahouse" — Signature Photo Spot
Located beside Shuzheng Road, it's said to be one of the inspirations for Spirited Away's Bathhouse Lady Yubaba. The shop offers tea drinks and light meals, and its open seating area on the 2nd floor with ocean views has made it a popular photo spot. It's always crowded, and weekends often require queuing. Average spending is approximately NT$150-250; it's recommended to visit on weekdays to avoid the crowds. Address: No. 3, Shuzheng Road, Ruifang District, New Taipei City.
2."Flower Flag Bakery" — 30-Year Traditional Pastry Shop
Founded in the 1970s, it's one of the few remaining traditional pastry shops in Jiufen. Their signature products are "Taiwanese Curry Crackers" and "Pineapple Cakes," handmade with fillings made in-house rather than purchased pre-made. The store is inconspicuous, located in the middle section of the old street—easy to miss if you're not looking. A box of curry crackers costs approximately NT$180-220, making it a practical souvenir choice. Perfect as a "not-just-another-tourist-souvenir" local flavor option. Address: No. 63, Jiufen Old Street, Ruifang District, New Taipei City.
3."Clay Man Wu" — Dough Sculpture Artist
A handicraft studio on Shuzheng Road, run by an elderly dough sculpture master. Once a traditional folk craft technique, it has now become a特色店 where tourists can experience and purchase handcrafted works. Pieces range from traditional characters to cartoon figures, each with vivid expressions. The master says: "I've done this my whole life—now I count each year as a blessing." A piece of dough sculpture costs approximately NT$100-500, depending on size and complexity. For Hong Kong and Mainland China visitors, this represents an "affordable traditional experience," while in Taiwan itself, it's already considered unique handcraft art. Address: No. 37, Shuzheng Road, Ruifang District, New Taipei City.
4"Mountain Sea Tofu Pudding" — Popular Dessert with DIY Toppings
Located near the end of the old street, in an alley near the Shengping Theater. The tofu pudding has a smooth texture with abundant topping options, including traditional choices like peanuts, mung beans, red beans, as well as innovative options like oatmeal and agar. A bowl of tofu pudding costs approximately NT$40-60, making it affordable for Jiufen. After Kaohsiung Mayor Han Kuo-yu visited publicly in 2019, it became a trending spot. Visiting on weekday afternoons usually means no queuing.
5."The Nurse's Store" — Mineral-Themed Souvenirs
The owner, formerly a nurse, opened this mineral souvenir shop. The store displays and sells various mineral raw stones and processed items, including locally sourced iron ore and placer gold from Jiufen. Compared to ordinary souvenir shops, this store's distinctive feature is its sharing of mineral knowledge—the owner actively explains mineral formation, types, and characteristics, combining purchasing with educational value. Mineral prices vary greatly, from NT$100 raw stones to several thousand yuan high-end display pieces, ideal for "visitors wanting to learn about Jiufen's mining history." Address: No. 120, Jishan Street, Ruifang District, New Taipei City.
【Practical Information】
Getting There:
The most convenient way from central Taipei is to take the Taiwan Railway to "Ruifang Station," then transfer to a bus (788, 825, 856) or taxi up the mountain. Private vehicles cannot enter the core old street area and must park at the "Jiufen Flat Parking Lot" (small vehicle NT$100/hour) or "Geiding Parking Lot." If coming from Keelung, you can also take bus routes 1062 or 791 directly.
Budget Suggestions:
Most Jiufen shops deal in cash, with few supporting electronic payment. It's recommended to prepare at least NT$500-1000 for shopping and dining. If planning to purchase jade stones or higher-value souvenirs, budget extra. Overall consumption levels are "slightly lower than Taipei but higher than typical towns," placing it at "reasonable tourist area pricing."
Business Hours:
Most shops operate between 10:00 AM and 6:00 PM. Holidays may close early or extend hours. Some are closed on Wednesdays and Thursdays; it's recommended to verify recent online reviews or call ahead before visiting. Notably, teahouses have evening hours, but shops start closing by dusk. Visitors wishing to experience Jiufen's nighttime atmosphere are advised to stay at a local guesthouse.
Best Season:
Jiufen is humid and rainy year-round, especially during winter northeast monsoon season. Rainy seasons see fewer visitors, but weather conditions affect photography. It's recommended to avoid consecutive typhoon season (July-September) and continuous rainy winter weather. Autumn weather is relatively stable and also a great time for photographing silver grass.
【Travel Tips】
First, Jiufen's stone-stepped old street is not suitable for wheelchairs or strollers. If traveling with mobility-impaired companions, it's recommended to visit the "Jinshan Gold Museum," which has better accessibility facilities.
Second, visiting on weekdays (non-weekends, non-national holidays) avoids peak crowds for a better experience. It's recommended to plan your trip Tuesday through Thursday, enjoying the peaceful atmosphere without missing normal shop operating hours.
Third, don't just linger on the "busy main section of the old street." It's recommended to "walk a bit further"—explore the branching Shuzheng Road and Qingbian Road, or even go past the well-known A-Mei Teahouse toward the sea direction. Some shops hidden in the alleys hold unexpected surprises.
Fourth, respect local residents' daily routines. When taking photos, avoid pointing cameras inside residents' living rooms. Commercial activities should not disturb local residents' peace. If a shop indicates "no viewing" or "no photography," please comply.
Fifth, remain sensitive to commercial reactions against overtourism. Over the past 20 years, Jiufen has undergone a dramatic change "from a declining mining town to a popular tourist destination," and locals have mixed feelings about this. If shop owners express impatience with tourists, don't take it personally—they are the hosts here, not service industry personnel.
Jiufen has no department stores, but this is precisely what makes this mountain town most precious. It preserves the traditional mining commercial district's "one floor, one shop"独立个性和人情味, making shopping not just consumption, but a journey of cultural depth.
