When you mention Yilan, you might think of Sanxing Scallions or the Jimmy Square, but if you ask a local: «What's best to eat on a rainy day?» nine out of ten will tell you—go buy a box of freshly steamed xiaolongbao.
This isn't a joke. Yilan's rainy season runs from October each year through March of the next year. The northeast monsoon brings rain pounding on the streets of Luodong and Dongshan. If you walk into any xiaolongbao shop during this season, you'll witness a peculiar sight: the white steam rising from the steaming baskets inside forms a faint mist with the rain outside—and according to the veteran masters, this is actually the signal that the xiaolongbao is at its best—with humidity reaching 80%, the dough skin won't dry out too quickly, and the soup in the filling stays warm longer. On days like this, the heat of the soup is more fully retained with every bite.
This principle is simple, yet rarely mentioned.
I. The Local Logic of Yilan Xiaolongbao
Unlike Taipei's Din Tai Tang, which pursues refined craftsmanship, Yilan's xiaolongbao was originally created to satisfy the hardworking forest workers and rice farmers in Luodong—food that could be eaten quickly, provide calories, and keep them warm in the damp, cold climate. That's why you'll find Yilan xiaolongbao are typically slightly larger than Taipei's, with slightly thicker dough skin—not for refinement, but for «pragmatic man-sized eating.» But strangely, this «robustness» has become a specialty, combined with Sanxing Township's proud Sanxing Scallions—sweeter than regular green onions without being too pungent—the filling logic of Yilan xiaolongbao has diverged from Taipei.
II. The Sanxing Scallion Boost
If you ask Yilan locals what ingredient they're proud of, Sanxing Scallions is definitely one of the answers. These scallions grow in the fertile soil of the Lanyang Plain. Because of the large temperature difference between day and night, the scallions accumulate sugar easily, giving them a natural sweetness. Local masters chop the Sanxing Scallions finely, mix them with ground pork, add a bit of pepper and soy sauce for seasoning. After steaming, the filling won't have that pungent onion smell, but instead a gentle sweet fragrance—this is a taste you can't get in the city.
Some older shops add a bit of glass noodles to the filling, absorbing the scallion's sweetness while making the soup more layered. This method is rarely seen in Taipei's xiaolongbao shops, but it's a classic Yilan local specialty.
II. Rainy Day Exclusive—The Locals' Hidden Way to Eat
After all that talk, what I really want to share is—if you visit Yilan on a rainy day, don't think you can only curl up in a café. In fact, rainy days are the best time to eat xiaolongbao.
The first reason is the «steam ratio.» On rainy days, the air humidity is high, and the steam from the steaming baskets doesn't dissipate easily. When you're queuing at the shop entrance, the steam surrounds you entirely—it feels like a sauna, but in winter it becomes a benefit instead.
The second reason is «heat retention.» The worst thing for xiaolongbao is getting cold. Once the soup in the filling cools down, the fat congeals and it becomes greasy. But on rainy days, because of the high humidity, the dough skin maintains a bit of moisture, slowing down the cooling process—so even if you take it to go and walk past an intersection before eating, the taste is usually still acceptable.
The third reason is «fewer people.» Taipei Din Tai Tang always has long lines on weekends, but Yilan's xiaolongbao shops on rainy days often don't require queuing—this is a «rainy day perk» known only to locals.
III. Recommended Shops
1. Yi Xiang Xiaolongbao (Luodong Town) — A longstanding establishment with over 30 years of local operation, located in an alley near Luodong Night Market. Their xiaolongbao has thicker dough skin, generous portions of Sanxing Scallions, and each dumpling feels substantial when picked up. The filling has enough soup without dripping everywhere. Suitable for those who want to fill up rather than eat delicately. One serving (8 pcs) is approximately NT$70.
2. Zhengchang Xiaolongbao (Yilan City) — The shop name is playful, but it's anything but «normal»—the owner studied at a Jiangsu-Zhejiang restaurant in Taipei for over ten years before returning to his hometown to open shop. His dumpling skin is especially thin, so thin you can faintly see the color of the filling, but it won't break. The filling seasoning is on the sweeter side—this sweetness comes from the natural sweetness of Sanxing Scallions, not added sugar. Those who love thin skin with lots of soup shouldn't miss this. One serving (8 pcs) is approximately NT$80.
3. San Yue Duo Xiaolongbao (Sanxing Township) — This shop's specialty is «made fresh, steamed fresh.» You can watch the master hand-make and steam the dumplings right in front of you in the open kitchen, from wrapping to ready in just about 5 minutes. That freshness and texture are completely different. Plus it's located in the center of Sanxing Township. After eating, you can visit the nearby Sanxing Scallion Cultural Museum to learn about the scallion planting process. One serving (8 pcs) is approximately NT$60, which is great value for money.
4. Du Xiao Yue (Dongshan Township) — This one is more like a multi-cuisine restaurant, serving other noodle soups and braised dishes besides xiaolongbao. But their xiaolongbao has a special feature—a bit of glass noodles added to the filling for a chewier texture. Those who love multi-layered textures can give it a try. Plus the seating is comfortable. If you don't want to eat standing on the street in the rain, this is a good option.
IV. Practical Information
Transportation: Take the Taiwan Railway from Taipei to Yilan Station, about 1.5 hours, fare around NT$440. After arriving in Yilan, you can choose to rent a scooter (about NT$300-400 per day) or take county buses. If you're specifically going for xiaolongbao, renting a scooter is most convenient since the shops are somewhat spread out—driving from Yilan City to Sanxing Township takes about 20 minutes.
Cost: A serving of xiaolongbao (8 pcs) costs between NT$60-80. If two people go plus a bowl of mixed soup, you can get by for under NT$150. At that price in Taipei, you can only get about 4 pcs, but in Yilan you'll eat until you're stuffed.
Business Hours: Most shops open at 7 AM and close around 3 PM—so don't go at 8 PM, they've likely already closed. Yi Xiang Xiaolongbao is the exception, open from noon to 6 PM, suitable for late sleepers.
Best Time: 10 to 11 AM is prime time. That's when the steamer is just heated up and the masters have just finished the first batch. If you want to eat them right out of the steamer, don't go too early or too late.
V. A Small Reminder
Most xiaolongbao shops in Yilan don't have air conditioning—this is different from Taipei. It can be a bit hot in summer, but many older shops put fans at the entrance—that's also part of the local hospitality. In the rain, if you don't mind standing under the arcade to eat with a cup of soy milk, that kind of happiness will make you forget how hard it's raining outside.
Final reminder: Never suck the soup from the filling too quickly. Many people get burned—not because the dumpling is too hot, but because the oil temperature in the soup is higher than you'd expect. Eat small bites, with some shredded ginger and vinegar—that's the authentic way to enjoy it.
Next time you visit Yilan, if it happens to be raining—don't hesitate—walk into a xiaolongbao shop, order a serving of freshly steamed xiaolongbao, pair it with the sound of rain outside the window, and you'll discover that rainy days can also be a culinary delight.
