Jiufen Xiaolongbao: Nostalgic Flavors and Local Stories in the Mountain Town Tea Houses

Taiwan jiufen · xiaolongbao

1,433 words5 min read5/22/2026diningxiaolongbaojiufen

This mountain town, which once thrived due to its gold mines, is now famous for its antique streets and tiered tea houses. Unlike the fast-food xiaolongbao shops in the city, Jiufen's xiaolongbao carries a different warmth—it combines the history of the mining village, tea culture, and handcrafted spirit into an affordable delight. Many visitors come specifically, not to just grab a quick bite, but to savor freshly handmade xiaolongbao in the misty tea atmosphere, paired with fine Taiwan tea, experiencing a kind of mountain town daily life that can only be found here.

This mountain town, which once thrived due to its gold mines, is now famous for its antique streets and tiered tea houses. Unlike the fast-food xiaolongbao shops in the city, Jiufen's xiaolongbao carries a different warmth—it combines the history of the mining village, tea culture, and handcrafted spirit into an affordable delight. Many visitors come specifically, not to just grab a quick bite, but to savor freshly handmade xiaolongbao in the misty tea atmosphere, paired with fine Taiwan tea, experiencing a kind of mountain town daily life that can only be found here.

Speaking of Jiufen xiaolongbao, one cannot overlook the local tea house culture. Early Jiufen residents were primarily miners, doing physically demanding work that required high-fat, high-energy food to replenish their strength. Xiaolongbao, with its soup-filled skin and generous filling, naturally became the workers' top choice after shifts. However, the xiaolongbao of early Jiufen differed from today's version—the filling was based on fried rice with lard, topped with green onions and pepper, an authentic mining village flavor, rather than the Jiangsu-Zhejiang soup dumbling style that was introduced later. This historical origin gives Jiufen xiaolongbao its unique place in Taiwan's xiaolongbao landscape.

Today, Jiufen's xiaolongbao is mainly found along Jishan Street and Qingbian Road, operating as combined tea houses and snack shops. Unlike Taipei's chain stores that emphasize standardization, each shop has its own recipe and conviction. What's interesting is that Jiufen sits at approximately 400 meters elevation, and the mountain town's humidity is higher than the plains. In winter, temperatures can drop below 10°C, and this environment actually makes the xiaolongbao dough easier to ferment, producing a uniquely chewy texture. This regional characteristic cannot be replicated by standardized central kitchen production on flat land.

The standout feature of Jiufen xiaolongbao is undoubtedly the unique "pairing with tea" experience. In the lowlands, when eating xiaolongbao, everyone sips soy milk or sour plum soup; but in Jiufen, tea houses serve authentic high-mountain oolong or pouchung tea. The rich broth of xiaolongbao, paired with a fresh tea rinse,正好cleanses the palate—this "savory-sweet lingering" flavor balance is Jiufen's special way of eating. More meticulous shops even offer a creative "tea-soaked soup dumpling" method—pouring brewed tea into the leftover xiaolongbao broth to make a self-made "soup dumpling tea," a hidden experience found nowhere else.

Another market trend worth noting is the significant change in Jiufen Old Street's visitor composition in recent years. According to Tourism Administration statistics, between 2024 and 2025, the domestic-to-international tourist ratio in Jiufen gradually narrowed from the early 7:3 to nearly 50:50. This means Jiufen food businesses must balance local tastes with international visitors' palatability. Xiaolongbao, being small in size, portable, and not overly spicy, has become one of the most accessible Taiwanese snacks for international travelers. Some businesses have started developing low-oil recipes or incorporating local ingredients like longan and jujube into the filling, attempting to align xiaolongbao with healthy dining trends while preserving traditional flavors.

Caozaiguo A-Mei Tea House is located at the end of Jishan Street. With over twenty years in business, it's one of the few shops in Jiufen still hand-wrapping dumplings on-site. A-Mei is the second-generation owner, starting dough kneading and filling preparation at 5 AM every day. All fillings use warm-body black pig meat purchased fresh from the Ruifang market that same morning. Regular customers know that这里的 xiaolongbao is slightly larger than elsewhere—one must be careful of the hot broth when taking the first bite because the soup is especially abundant. The signature flavor is "green onion fresh meat"—no processed seasonings, just ground pork, ginger-scallion water, and a pinch of salt and sugar for flavor, showcasing the pure meat aroma and dough fragrance. Six pieces, approximately NT$80.

Our Mountain Town Tea House is at the end of Qingbian Road, not far from the famous A-Mei Tea House, but functions more like a combined creative space. Their xiaolongbao isn't the highlight, but the quality is surprisingly steady, and the biggest feature is enjoying them on-site with fine tea. The tea house itself is an over 80-year-old stone cottage, with windows overlooking the ridge of Keelung Mountain—on misty days, it resembles a splashed-ink landscape painting. Their xiaolongbao follows a "delicate mini" style: eight pieces per order, smaller than average, made to be eaten in one bite, paired with honey-aroma oolong—one could spend an entire afternoon just like this. The owner explains that because the dumplings are smaller, the steaming time is shorter, making the dough chewier and less likely to absorb broth—this is intentionally adjusted. Approximately NT$100, including a pot of tea.

Gold Citrus Tea House is one of the rare shops on Jiufen Old Street offering both traditional xiaolongbao and modern creative dishes. Besides the traditional鲜肉, they've developed "tea mushroom bamboo dumpling"—adding dried shiitake and bamboo shoots to the filling, a creative flavor paying homage to Jiufen's tea town identity. The old building preserves the original timber loft structure, and diners can hear the wooden historical sounds. The owner shares that younger customers increasingly prefer non-greasy options, so they've switched to whole-wheat dough, reducing oil while adding a bit of wheat aroma. Six pieces, starting at approximately NT$90.

A-Yun's Small Shop is located at the corner of Jishan Street near the police station, without a conspicuous sign—a hidden spot known only to local regulars. The style is very "casual"—no menu, A-Yun cooks whatever vegetables she buys that day, xiaolongbao is usually available but not guaranteed daily. The pork comes from a fixed supplier, ground coarser to retain texture rather than the fine paste produced by machines. Regulars say the taste "is just like grandmother used to make." Approximately NT$12-15 per piece, fluctuating with daily ingredients. No fixed business hours—your best bet is to try your luck after 10 AM.

Jiufen Red Lees Garden is beside the car road, about a five-minute walk from the old street. Strictly speaking, this isn't a traditional tea house, but a creative shop combining Hakka red lees culture with xiaolongbao. Red lees form one of the dumpling filling bases—the light wine aroma mixed with ground pork surprisingly pairs well. The owner says red lees have natural preservative properties and are traditional Hakka ingredients—using local produce is a respect for culture. Five pieces, approximately NT$70, includes a bowl of daily soup—a local choice less known to outside tourists.

The most convenient way from Taipei is to take the Taiwan Railway to Ruifang Station, then transfer to a bus or taxi up the mountain. The local train from Taipei Main Station takes about 40 minutes to reach Ruifang, with fares around NT$54. After arrival, take Bus 856 directly to Jiufen Old Street, or flag one of the many taxis waiting outside the station—one-way trips cost approximately NT$150-180 to the old street entrance. If driving, New Taipei City Line 106 leads directly there, but expect traffic on holidays, and parking near the old street is limited—visiting on weekdays or during off-peak hours is advised.

The best season for Jiufen is autumn to early spring (October to March)—the weather is cool and pleasant, unlike the stifling crowds of summer. Especially during evening hours, the old street with lanterns lit creates a wonderful atmosphere; just pair a basket of xiaolongbao with tea in a teahouse for the perfect mountain town slow-living experience. During the rainy season (April to June), there are fewer tourists, but remember to bring an umbrella—the stone steps are slippery, so watch your footing carefully.

Insider-level advice: Don't just focus on the popular shops on the main old street—more queues don't necessarily mean better quality. The real secret is to wander the side streets and find those shops without big signs, appearing like ordinary homes—you'll often find surprises. Also, the best xiaolongbao in Jiufen is freshly made and steamed—those pre-made and kept warm in steam cabinets will have diminished flavor. If you see staff actively wrapping, that's the perfect time. Additionally, Jiufen's prices are generally slightly lower than Taipei's—a six-piece basket of xiaolongbao normally priced between NT$60-90 is fair game; if it exceeds NT$100 significantly, think twice.

FAQ

九份小籠包一籠多少錢?

九份老茶樓的小籠包行情約每籠80-120元,以10顆為主,是銅板價格的傳統古早味。

九份最有名的茶樓是哪間?

九份老街上約有7-8家人氣茶樓,其中「阿妹茶樓」最知名,距離金瓜石僅10分鐘步程。

九份小籠包跟一般的有何不同?

九份小籠包主打手工現做內餡,加入金瓜石礦泉水與在地黑豬肉,並搭配海拔800公尺的阿里山烏龍茶。

九份小籠包推薦什麼時候吃?

建議下午2-3點人潮較少時造訪,可避開假日的排隊人龍,平日下午茶時段最適合。

九份茶樓營業時間到幾點?

多數九份茶樓上午9點開店,晚間6-7點打烊,建議傍晚5點前抵達可享完整菜單。

去九份吃小籠包要預約嗎?

非假日可現場排隊,但過年期間、連續假期人潮眾多,建議提前電話訂位以免向隅。

Sources

Related Industries

🍽️

餐飲美食

Dining & Food

Related Guides

In-depth articles sharing merchants or topics with this guide