When it comes to Jiufen, most people's first impressions are the whimsical Bathhouse from Miyazaki's Spirited Away, the stone-step old street cascading down mountain slopes, and various traditional sweets. Actually, Jiufen itself is a mountain town situated at an altitude of about 600 meters. Its most prosperous period was during the Japanese colonial era when mining thrived. Back then, miners ate mainly energy-rich meats and pickled side dishes rather than fresh seafood. However, if you're willing to expand the radius slightly—a 15-20 minute ride from Jiufen takes you to nearby Keelung Port or Ruifang Fishing Port, making it possible to embark on a wonderful mountain-to-sea adventure.
First, one thing needs to be clarified: The main appeal of Jiufen Old Street is its traditional snacks like taro balls, bamboo shoots, rice cakes with herbal filling, red-fermented meat rolls, and grilled sausage. If you come specifically to Jiufen hoping to find seafood, you may be disappointed. But precisely because of this, thinking in reverse, Jiufen's "seafood" can be enjoyed another way—many food enthusiasts leave Jiufen and head to nearby fishing ports or downtown Keelung for a hearty meal. This "mountain town tasting ocean flavors" combination has become a hidden gem recommended by locals.
Why mention this specially? Because Jiufen is located in the mountains, with temperatures about 3-5 degrees cooler than the flatlands. Some established shops take advantage of this natural cold storage benefit, achieving better preservation results for certain ingredients than would be possible at lower altitudes. Of course, this说法 is more like a playful sense of humor from locals about their home rather than a genuine seafood selling point.
That said, there are indeed a few specialty shops around Jiufen related to "ocean flavors" worth checking out:
【Golden Tang Crab】Located at the end of Jiufen Old Street, the owner sources directly from Keelung Fishing Port. Their signature dish is the "blanched squid" method—quickly blanching fresh squid and cuttlefish in boiling water, then drizzling with garlic sauce. The texture is Q弹脆甜 (chewy, elastic, crisp, and sweet). Average spending is about NT$80-150, perfect as a small snack after climbing the hills. The shop's specialty is insisting on never using frozen ingredients. The owner often says: "We personally go to Keelung's Kanziding fish market every morning to select—seafood should be eaten the same day it's caught."
【A-Mei Tea House】While many visit here because it's the inspiration for Spirited Away, they also serve simple tea snacks and light seafood dishes. Their signature "salt andpepper shrimp" uses Taiwan coastal spot shrimp, deep-fried until crispy—the shell can be eaten directly. Paired with a pot of Four Seasons Oolong tea, it's a nice afternoon组合. Average spending is about NT$120-200.
【Old-Line Dried Seafood Shop】In the middle of Jiufen Old Street, there's a shop specializing in various dried seafood products like dried squid, dried shrimp, seaweed, and crispy seaweed snacks. They don't have a huge variety, but everything is hand-selected by the owner. Many local grandmothers buy these to cook soups or mix with porridge. Prices are about NT$30-100 per small package, great as souvenirs to take home.
If you want to eat even more, consider planning a "Jiufen + Keelung" day trip: After descending from Jiufen, it's about 30 minutes by car or bus to Keelung's Zhengbin Fishing Port or Bisha Fishing Port, where there are more fresh seafood options. In recent years, Keelung City Government has actively promoted fishing port transformation. Zhengbin Fishing Port now hosts creative markets and seafood restaurants, creating a new-old fusion coastal atmosphere.
【Practical Information】
If departing from Taipei, the most convenient way is taking a Taiwan Railways local train to Ruifang Station (about 50 minutes, fare around NT$45-60), then transferring to a taxi or walking into Jiufen Old Street. If driving yourself, parking spaces in Jiufen are quite limited, and they're often full on weekends. It's recommended to park in Ruifang and figure out the rest from there.
Jiufen Old Street is open roughly from 10 AM to 7 PM, with some shops staying open until 8-9 PM. If you want to avoid the crowds, visiting after 3-4 PM will be more comfortable. Since it's a mountainous town with many slopes, wearing comfortable walking shoes is advised.
【One Little Reminder】
The number of "seafood" shops in Jiufen itself is indeed limited. Rather than calling this a seafood paradise, it's more accurate to say it's a stopover on the way to seafood. Many experienced travelers treat Jiufen as a place to hike and reminisce, then head to nearby Keelung or fishing ports with anticipation for a satisfying seafood meal—this arrangement actually matches reality better.
Next time you visit Jiufen, don't just eat taro balls—consider extending your journey to experience the tasting connection between mountain and sea!
