Jiufen Old Street: A Nostalgic Journey Through the Gold Mountain Town

Taiwan Jiufen • Old Streets

757 words3 min read3/29/2026tourismold-streetsjiufen

When it comes to Jiufen, most people first think of Hayao Miyazaki's Spirited Away and the inspiration behind the Bathhouse Spirit Yubaba, as well as the traditional old street built into the mountains with its stone steps running in all directions. This mountain town, located in Ruifong District of New Taipei City, was once Taiwan's most prosperous gold mining area, and now attracts a steady stream of visitors with its nostalgic atmosphere and authentic local cuisine.

The charm of Jiufen Old Street lies in its "sense of time"—the weathered wooden buildings, winding alleyways, and traditional food stalls found everywhere make visitors feel as if they've stepped into a painting of the old days. In the evening, the lantern-lit old street and the night view of the mountain town complement each other, creating a breathtakingly beautiful scene.

Highlights
The biggest characteristic of Jiufen Old Street is its "three abundances": steps, teahouses, and snacks. The entire mountain town is built on a hillside, with hundreds of stone steps of various sizes connecting every corner. Walking through the old street itself is a full of surprises adventure. The traditional teahouses lining the street offer tea tasting and refreshments, allowing travelers to take a break in an antique-style setting. And the various old-fashioned snacks—taro balls, herb rice cakes, red-fermented meat buns, peanut roll ice cream—are affordable local delicacies that keep visitors coming back for more.

Recommended Spots
1. A-Mei Teahouse
Considered the inspiration for the Bathhouse in Spirited Away, this building features a traditional Southern Fujian style exterior. The three-story red wooden building is particularly striking under the lighting. The teahouse offers various high-mountain teas and traditional tea snacks, with an average spending of NT$150-300 per person. Enjoying tea while overlooking the mountain town's night view is the most classic Jiufen experience.

2. Taro Ball Viewpoint Shop (Lai A-Po's Taro Balls)
One of the origins of Jiufen's taro balls, located at the intersection of Jishan Street and Qingbian Road. The shop's handmade purple taro, yellow taro, and green tea three-color taro balls have a chewy, springy texture, and are recommended paired with shaved ice or hot soup. A small bowl is NT$50, perfect as a light snack while strolling.

3. Herb Rice Cake Specialty Shop (Old Road Herb Rice Cakes)
A popular stall located near the Jiufen Police Station, these herb rice cakes are handmade daily with generous fillings, available in both sweet and savory varieties. The signature red bean and shredded radish flavors are NT$15 each. The soft, glutinous skin has a subtle mugwort aroma, making it Jiufen's most representative traditional rice cake.

4. Shengping TheaterBuilt during the Japanese colonial period, Shengping Theater was once Jiufen's most lively entertainment venue. Although it no longer screens films, it retains the complete projection equipment and nostalgic posters. Free to visit, it's an important site for understanding Jiufen's mining culture and film history.

5. City of Sadness Specialty TeahouseNamed after the film of the same name "City of Sadness," this teahouse preserves the old building's wooden structure and nostalgic furnishings. The shop offers oolong tea, tieguanyin, and other teas, along with traditional tea accompaniments like peanuts and melon seeds, with an average spending of NT$120-200 per person. Ideal for travelers who want to escape the crowds and quietly soak in the atmosphere of the mountain town.

Practical Information
How to Get There: From Taipei, you can take the Taiwan Railway to Ruifong Station (approximately 50 minutes), then transfer to Keelung Bus routes 788, 825, or 1062 to Jiufen Old Street stop; or take bus 1062 directly from the Zhongxiao Xinsheng MRT station. Self-drive visitors can park at the Jiufen Visitor Center parking lot (NT$100 per entry for small vehicles).

Budget Suggestion: There is no admission fee for Jiufen Old Street, but it is recommended to prepare approximately NT$300-500 for trying snacks and tea refreshments. Souvenirs like dried taro balls and herb rice cakes cost approximately NT$80-150.

Business Hours: Most shops on the old street are open from 10:00 AM to 8:00-9:00 PM, while teahouses may stay open until 10:00 PM. It is recommended to avoid weekend crowds; visiting on weekdays offers a better opportunity to experience the quiet beauty of the old street.

Travel Tips
Jiufen Old Street is built into the mountains with many steps and slippery paths, so it is recommended to wear comfortable flat shoes or sneakers. The best travel seasons are spring (March to May) and autumn (October to November), when the weather is cool and pleasant; summer afternoons often bring thunderstorms, so bring rain gear. During the Lunar New Year and连续 holidays, crowds are intense, so it is advisable to go early or visit on weekdays.

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