When people think of Jiufen, most picture the bathhouse from Miyazaki's "Spirited Away," or the crowded taro ball stalls on Jishan Street. But if you're tired of the weekend crowds and want to capture Jiufen's deeper cultural soul, this article will show you a different side of Jiufen—without the traditional temple festival firecrackers, but with the soft glow of the mountain town at nightfall, and hidden art studios and tea culture experiences tucked away in the stairways and alleyways.
Jiufen's geographical location is unique. This mountain town in Ruifang District, New Taipei City, leans against Mt. Keelong and faces the northern coast. It flourished early on from gold mining, which also left behind its distinctive vertical mountain town topography. Stairs, slopes, and winding alleyways form a canvas that cannot be replicated anywhere else. In recent years, Jiufen has been quietly changing—a new generation of young artists has moved in, converting old houses into studios, cafés, and teahouses, infusing new cultural energy into this century-old mining town.
When we talk about Jiufen's "festivals," rather than being celebratory events on specific dates, it's more like a continuously occurring "everyday festival vibe"—when merchants light up red lanterns at dusk, and the mountain town's glowing lights reflect on the distant sea, that atmosphere itself is a visual celebration.
If you're visiting Jiufen for the first time and want to experience the mountain town's nighttime charm, here are three locations that will give you a different Jiufen experience from the typical tourist:
Jiufen Teahouse (Puzhen Garden)—This is Jiufen's most iconic tea culture space, founded in 1991 by artist Lin Mingzhe. The teahouse preserves traditional Minnan architectural elements, with the interior featuring extensive wood and ceramic decorations. They serve Taiwanese teas like High Mountain Oolong and Honey Red Oolong, with tea service costing approximately NT$150-250 per pot. Rather than just drinking tea, it's about experiencing a slow-living ritual. The teahouse regularly hosts small ceramic exhibitions and tea ceremony workshops by reservation only—it's recommended to book by phone a week in advance. Address: No. 1, Qingbian Road, Ruifang District, New Taipei City.
Slowly Gold Mountain (Zangshan Café)—This is located in Jinguangshi (Gold Mountain), not just a café but a combined space integrating accommodation and art exhibitions. The owner is a well-known writer who has won multiple literary awards. The art exhibitions change themes quarterly, showcasing works by local artists or poster designers. The coffee features single-origin pour-over, starting at NT$180, with daily-limited desserts. The advantage here is that the crowd is far smaller than Jiufen Old Street, perfect for travelers who want to quietly enjoy the mountain town. Address: No. 1, Shiwu Road, Ruifang District, New Taipei.
Jiufen Art Village (Lane 146, Jishan Street)—This alley is hidden within the bustling Jishan Street, yet has an entirely different atmosphere. It houses several small studios and galleries with free permanent exhibitions, and street art performances or guided tours are held every Saturday and Sunday afternoon. The "Wu Yi Su" studio specializes in metal jewelry creation, often inspired by Jiufen's mining town history, with prices ranging from NT$800-3000—perfect for unique souvenirs.
Getting to Jiufen from Taipei offers multiple transportation options. The classic route is taking a Taiwan Railways local train from Taipei Main Station to Ruifang Station (about 50 minutes, NT$76), then transferring to bus 788 or 856 to Jiufen Old Street (about 15 minutes). You can also take bus 1062 directly from the Zhongxiao Fuxing Station near Taipei Main Station to Jiufen, about 70 minutes, NT$100-120. If driving, there are several parking lots near Jiufen Old Street, with weekday rates around NT$50/hour and a maximum of NT$200/day on weekends.
For budget planning, if you're only visiting without dining, transportation costs are approximately NT$200 round trip, and a teahouse or café experience costs about NT$150-300—overall, it's a relatively affordable cultural mini-trip.
The best time to visit is from autumn to early winter (October to December), with pleasant cool weather and a high probability of sunny days—golden timing for photographing the mountain town's night scenery. The cherry blossom season (February to March) is also popular, but with larger crowds. To avoid crowds, it's recommended to visit after 3 PM on weekdays, when the old street traffic明显减少，茶屋与咖啡廳更容易預約。
Finally, a few tips: Jiufen is built on a mountain with many stairs, so wearing comfortable walking shoes is recommended; the mountain weather changes quickly, so even in summer, bring a light jacket; most shops close at 8 PM, so if you want to experience the mountain town's nighttime lights, it's best to stroll between 5:30 and 7 PM, when the lights first come on and the tourists have left—that's when Jiufen is most enchanting.
