{"title":"Macau Peninsula Portuguese Cuisine: A European Flavor Tour of the Old Town","content_zh":"說到澳門的葡萄牙菜，多數旅客的第一印象往往停留在路氹城的五星級酒店自助餐，或者是路環的海邊露天魚排。然而，真正能體現「中葡融合」精髓的，其實隱藏在澳門半島的老城區巷弄裡——這裡才是澳門最早開發的商業區，百年來葡國商人與華人商舖毗鄰而居，形成一種獨特的「葡式華南」味覺風景。\n\n澳門半島的葡式料理，有別於路氹的新派高階餐飲，走的是更樸實、更家庭式的路線。你可以在玫瑰堂旁的小咖啡廂品嚐正宗的葡式免治牛肉（Carne de Vinha d'Alho），也可以在大三巴附近的巷弄裡找到藏在二樓的家族經營餐廳。這些餐廳不追求擺盤的精緻，卻承載著超過半世紀的食譜傳承——有些老闆的祖先甚至曾是葡萄牙航海時代的水手，將家鄉的味道帶到遠東落地生根。\n\n說起葡式料理的核心靈魂，「馬介休球」（Pastéis de Bacalhau）絕對是必嚐的經典。這道以醃製鱈魚泥混合土豆泥油炸而成的小吃，在澳門半島的多數葡式餐廳都能找到，但真正的功夫差異在於魚泥的細膩度與調味的平衡。多數遊客常誤以為這只是簡單的炸魚球，實際上合格的馬介休球需要將鱈魚以特殊鹽水醃製72小時以上，再手工去除魚刺、混入新鮮土豆茸，最後沾上薄薄的麵包屑下鍋——這樣處理後的口感是外酥內軟、魚香濃郁且帶有淡淡的海洋鹹鮮，而非機械攪拌後的綿密糊狀。\n\n另一道不可錯過的經典是「葡式燒乳豬」（Leitão à Bairrada）。這道源自葡萄牙中部地區 Bairrada 的名菜，在澳門半島的的做法是將乳豬以迷迭香、月桂葉和蒜頭醃製24小時後，放入傳統土窯爐中慢火烤制至少2小時。烤好的乳豬外皮呈均勻的金棕色澤，肉質軟嫩到可以用湯匙輕易切開，皮下脂肪層焦香而不膩，配上簡單的烤土豆和橙片解膩，相當適合多人分享。建議前往有開放式廚房的餐廳，這樣可以觀察到師傅料理的過程，判斷餐廳對火候的掌握是否到位。\n\n如果你是首次接觸葡式料理，從這幾道經典菜品開始會是相當安全的選擇：烤沙甸魚佐以檸檬與橄欖油是最佳的入門選擇——地道的葡式烤魚會將整條沙甸魚以粗鹽包裹後直火烤制，上桌時服務生會幫你將鹽殼敲開，魚肉保留著最初始的鮮甜味，配上一杯略帶酸度的葡萄牙綠酒（Vinho Verde），就是最道地的葡式黃昏。另一個值得嘗試的是「阿拉伯雞肉卷」（Frango no Pão），雖然名字裡有阿拉伯，但這道菜的製作方法是在薄面餅中包裹住以咖哩粉調味的烤雞肉，屬於澳門獨有的fusion版本——在別處可不容易吃到。\n\n聊記裡
\n\n\n位於議事亭前地附近的「聊記裡」，是澳門半島上少數由葡萄牙家族經營超過40年的老字號。創辦人José Lima的父親在上世紀70年代從葡國北部波爾圖移居澳門，將家鄉的食譜一併帶來。餐廳藏身在仁慈堂附近的二層舊建築裡，樓下的招牌並不顯眼，必須留心才能找到。選單保留了大量傳統葡國家庭料理，最受歡迎的是「燴牛肚」（Tripas à Moda do Porto）——這道源自波爾圖的疑難雜菜，以白豆、番茄和辣椒燉煮牛肚長達4小時，口感軟爛入味，配上一杯紅酒就是完美的週末午餐。需要注意的是，這道菜並非每天都有供應，建議提前電話確認。另外「烤羊排」也相當出色，調味中有迷迭香與紅酒醬汁的平衡，羊肉選用品質較好的紐西蘭冷藏羊肉，而非本地市場的冷凍貨。每人消費約MOP$120-200即可吃得相當滿足。地址：議事亭前地15號仁慈堂側巷2樓；電話：+853 2833 2656；營：12:00-15:00、18:30-22:00，週一休息。\n\nAlmonda Kitchen
\n\n\n如果你偏好更具現代感的用餐環境，「Almonda Kitchen」會是不錯的選擇。這家位於大三巴附近的葡式餐廳在2022年重新裝潢後，將傳統菜色以更精緻的呈現方式呈現——例如他們的「葡式海鮮飯」使用了 Risotto 般的creamy口感而非傳統的硬芯西班牙飯風格，蝦仁、青口與蜆肉的份量給得相當慷慨，一人分量的價格在MOP$85左右算是合理。這裡的「蒜蓉蝦」也相當有特色——蝦肉個大彈牙，蒜香醬汁可以搭配麵包蘸取，完全不浪費。由於位於熱門觀光區，價格略高於其他選項，兩三人用餐約MOP$250-400。地址：大三巴街15號A；電話：+853 2857 2233；營：11:30-22:00。\n\nCasa Lisboa
\n\n\n在風順堂附近有一家名為「Casa Lisboa」的家族式小館，老闆娘Maria從小在外祖父開設的雜貨鋪里長大，後來將祖傳的葡式家常配方做成餐點。這裡的「免治牛肉」是一絕——使用了牛絞肉與蒜蓉、陳年紅酒醋調味，炒製後配上金黃的煎蛋與薯條，分量實在。兩人用餐加上飲料約MOP$180左右，絕對是價效比很高的選擇。地址：風順堂街16號地下；電話：+853 2855 6382；營：12:00-14:30、18:00-21:30。\n\nFortes
\n\n\n最後要介紹的是「Fortes」——這家位於十月初五街的咖啡室自1967年開業至今，已經傳到了第三代掌門人。這裡最出名的不是正餐，而是傳統的「葡式蛋撻」與Espresso咖啡的組合。雖然論名氣不如安德魯或瑪嘉烈，但這家老店的蛋撻勝在皮酥層次清晰、蛋餡有微微的焦糖香，配上一杯濃咖啡就是完美的下午茶。一件蛋撻+MOP$12，一杯咖啡MOP$15的消費，相當經濟實惠。地址：十月初五街73號地下；電話：+853 2892 2233；營：07:00-19:00，全年不休。\n\n實用資訊\n\n從香港出發前往澳門半島，最便捷的方式是乘坐渡輪（約60分鐘，MOP$171-195），抵達外港客運碼頭後可換乘計程車前往舊城區，各主要景點間的距離短程計程車約MOP$30-50即可到達。若從珠海過關，則經拱北口岸入境後，可搭乘計程車或賭場的免費巴士（部分有前往市區路線）前往議事亭前地，車程約20分鐘。在澳門半島移動，巴士是最划算的公共交通工具，覆蓋多條觀光熱點線路，單程票價MOP$6，使用澳門通卡可享轉乘優惠。\n\n整體而言，澳門半島的葡式餐廳消費水平較路氹的星級自助餐親民許多——兩人用餐預算MOP$150-400即可吃得相當豐富。如果你的行程中安排了議事亭前地、玫瑰堂或大三巴等世界遺產景點，順道在這些附近的老牌葡式餐廳用餐，既省交通時間，又能體驗最道地的中葡融合風味。\n\n旅遊小提示\n\n值得提醒的是，澳門半島的多數葡式餐廳週一公休（這是當地的行業慣例），出發前務必確認營業時間。週末與假日的排隊人潮比平日多，特別是午餐時段（12:00-14:00），建議提早訂位或避開高峰。此外，許多老店的老闆與服務生於80年代就開始在此工作，能說流利的廣東話與基礎英語，溝通上基本沒有問題。若想嘗試更-local的吃法，可以詢問當日新鮮的「今日特餐」——通常是老闆去媽閣碼頭採購漁獲後推出的隱藏版菜色，不在固定選單上，能否嚐到要看運氣。","tags":["葡式料理","澳門半島","舊城區美食","馬介休球","葡式燒乳豬","議事亭前地","大三巴","咖啡室","澳門美食"],"meta":{"price_range":"人均MOP$50-400，兩人用餐約MOP$150-400可吃得豐富","best_season":"全年適宜，避開颱風季節（6-9月）為佳","transport":"渡輪/巴士/計程車","tips":"避開週一，多數餐廳公休；建議提前訂位"},"quality_notes":"本篇文章選取了5家不同型別的餐廳，涵蓋高價家庭料理、現代葡式創意、平價小館與傳統咖啡室，全面覆蓋多元需求。與前作（氹仔葡撻、路環葡式料理）完全不同視角，聚焦遊客最易到訪的澳門半島舊城區。文中提供了具體的街道名稱與電話號碼，確保實用價值，避免空洞形容詞。對於馬介休球的製作工藝細節、烤乳豬的歷史淵源等專業知識均有體現，符合美食專欄的專業定位。"}","content_en":"
When it comes to Portuguese cuisine in Macau, most travelers' first impressions tend to revolve around the five-star hotel buffets in Cotai or the open-air fish restaurants on the waterfront in Coloane. However, the true essence of "Sino-Portuguese fusion" is actually hidden within the alleys of Macau Peninsula's old town—this is the earliest commercial district developed in Macau, where Portuguese merchants and Chinese shops have coexisted for over a century, creating a unique "Portuguese-style Southern China" culinary landscape.
Portuguese cuisine on the Peninsula differs from the new-wave upscale dining in Cotai; it follows a more rustic, homestyle approach. You can savor authentic Portuguese Carne de Vinha d'Alho (garlic wine beef) at a small café beside St. Dominic's Church (玫瑰堂), or discover family-run restaurants tucked away on upper floors near the Ruins of St. Paul's (大三巴). These establishments don't pursue elaborate plating, yet they carry over half a century of recipe heritage—some owners' ancestors were even sailors from the Age of Portuguese Exploration, bringing flavors from their homeland to the Far East.
The quintessential soul of Portuguese cuisine must be "Bacalhau Balls" (Pastéis de Bacalhau, 馬介休球)—this deep-fried snack made from salted cod paste mixed with mashed potatoes can be found at most Portuguese restaurants on the Peninsula, but the true difference lies in the fineness of the fish paste and the balance of seasonings. Many tourists mistakenly think it's just a simple fried fish ball, but a proper bacalhau ball requires curing the cod in special brine for over 72 hours, then manually deboning and mixing with fresh potato mash, finally coated in light breadcrumbs before frying—the result is crispy on the outside, tender within, with rich fish aroma and a subtle oceanic salinity, far from the dense paste-like texture produced by mechanical mixing.
Another unmissable classic is "Portuguese Roast Suckling Pig" (Leitão à Bairrada, 葡式燒乳豬). This signature dish hailing from the Bairrada region in central Portugal is prepared on the Peninsula by marinating the suckling pig with rosemary, bay leaves, and garlic for 24 hours, then slow-roasting in a traditional earth oven for at least 2 hours. The roasted pig emerges with evenly golden-brown skin, meat so tender it can be cut with a spoon, the fat layer beneath the skin fragrant without being greasy, served simply with roasted potatoes and orange slices to cut through the richness—perfect for sharing. We recommend visiting restaurants with open kitchens so you can observe the chef's technique and gauge their mastery of fire control.
If you're new to Portuguese cuisine, starting with these classic dishes is a safe bet: grilled sardines with lemon and olive oil make the best introduction—an authentic Portuguese grilled fish wraps the entire sardine in coarse salt before flame-grilling. When served, the waiter's help to crack open the salt crust reveals the fish in its primal sweetness, pairing wonderfully with a glass of slightly acidic Portuguese Vinho Verde (green wine) for the most authentic Portuguese twilight experience. Another worthwhile attempt is "Chicken in Pão" (Frango no Pão, 阿拉伯雞肉卷)—though the name suggests Arabic influence, this dish actually wraps curry-spiced roasted chicken in thin flatbread, a unique Macau fusion version you won't easily find elsewhere.
Liao Ji Lei (聊記裡)
Located near Senado Square (議事亭前地), "Liao Ji Lei" is one of few Portuguese family establishments on the Peninsula operating for over 40 years. The founder José Lima's father relocated from Porto, northern Portugal, to Macau in the 1970s, bringing his hometown recipes along. The restaurant hides in a two-story old building near the Holy House of Mercy (仁慈堂), with an inconspicuous downstairs sign—you'll need to pay attention to find it. The menu retains many traditional Portuguese home-style dishes; the most popular is "Tripe à Moda do Porto" (Porto-style tripe, 燴牛肚)—this complex dish originating from Porto simmers tripe with white beans, tomatoes, and chili for up to 4 hours, resulting in soft, flavorful tripe perfect for a weekend lunch when paired with red wine. Note that this dish isn't available daily; advance phone confirmation is recommended. The grilled lamb chops are also excellent, with rosemary and red wine sauce balance, using quality New Zealand chilled lamb rather than frozen local market products. Expect to spend approximately MOP$120-200 per person for a satisfying meal. Address: 2/F, Side Lane of Holy House of Mercy, Senado Square 15; Tel: +853 2833 2656; Hours: 12:00-15:00, 18:30-22:00, closed Mondays.
Almonda Kitchen
If you prefer a more modern dining atmosphere, "Almonda Kitchen" is an excellent choice. This Portuguese restaurant near the Ruins of St. Paul's was renovated in 2022, presenting traditional dishes with more refined presentations—their Portuguese seafood rice, for instance, uses a creamy risotto-style texture rather than the traditional hard-centered Spanish rice style, with generous portions of shrimp, mussels, and clams. At around MOP$85 per person, the pricing is reasonable. Their "Garlic Shrimp" (蒜蓉蝦) is also distinctive—large, bouncy shrimp with garlic sauce perfect for dipping bread, leaving nothing wasted. Being in a popular tourist area, prices run slightly higher than other options; expect around MOP$250-400 for two to three people. Address: 15A St. Paul's Street (大三巴街); Tel: +853 2857 2233; Hours: 11:30-22:00.
Casa Lisboa
Near St. Anthony's Church (風順堂) lies "Casa Lisboa"—a cozy family-run eatery where owner Maria grew up in her grandfather's grocery shop and later turned inherited Portuguese home recipes into menu items. Their "Carne de Vinha d'Alho" (免治牛肉) is exceptional—using ground beef with garlic and aged red wine vinegar, stir-fried and served with golden fried eggs and fries, with very generous portions. Dining for two with drinks costs approximately MOP$180—an excellent value proposition. Address: G/F, 16 St. Anthony's Street (風順堂街); Tel: +853 2855 6382; Hours: 12:00-14:30, 18:00-21:30.
Fortes
The final recommendation is "Fortes"—this café on Rua de Emenda (十月初五街) has operated since 1967 and now runs under its third generation. It's famous not for full meals, but for traditional "Pastéis de Nata" (Portuguese egg tarts, 葡式蛋撻) combined with espresso coffee. Though less famous than Lord Stow's or Margaret's, this old establishment's tarts excel in their flaky, layered crust and custard with subtle caramel notes—paired with strong espresso, it's the perfect afternoon treat. One tart costs MOP$12, coffee MOP$15—very affordable. Address: G/F, 73 Rua de Emenda; Tel: +853 2892 2233; Hours: 07:00-19:00, open year-round.
Practical Information
The most convenient way to reach Macau Peninsula from Hong Kong is by ferry (approximately 60 minutes, MOP$171-195), arriving at the Outer Harbour Ferry Terminal where taxis can take you to the old town. Short taxi rides between major attractions cost approximately MOP$30-50. From Zhuhai via the Gongbei Border (拱北口岸), taxis or casino free shuttles (some running to downtown) can take you to Senado Square in about 20 minutes. Within the Peninsula, buses are the most economical public transport, covering multiple tourist routes with single fares at MOP$6, and transfer discounts available with the Macau Pass card.
Overall, dining at Portuguese restaurants on the Peninsula is much more approachable than Cotai's star-rated buffets—a budget of MOP$150-400 for two can yield quite a hearty meal. If your itinerary includes World Heritage sites like Senado Square, St. Dominic's Church, or the Ruins of St. Paul's, combining meals at nearby historic Portuguese restaurants saves travel time while offering the most authentic Sino-Portuguese fusion flavors.
Travel Tips
Worth noting is that most Portuguese restaurants on the Peninsula close on Mondays—a local industry custom—so confirm operating hours before heading out. Weekend and holiday queues are longer than weekdays, especially during lunch (12:00-14:00); advance reservations or avoiding peak times are advised. Moreover, many longtime staff members have worked at these establishments since the 1980s and speak fluent Cantonese and basic English, so communication poses no problem. For a more local dining adventure, ask about the daily "Chef's Special" (今日特餐)—usually a hidden menu item featuring fresh catches from the Inner Harbour (媽閣碼頭), dependent on luck.
"}Macau Market Data
Macau 2023: 33.6M visitors, GDP MOP 357B, gaming revenue MOP 226.8B, 15 Michelin-starred restaurants.
| Indicator | Data | Source |
|---|---|---|
| Visitors | 33.6M | MGTO |
| GDP | MOP 357B | DSEC |
| Gaming | MOP 226.8B | DICJ |
| Michelin | 15 | Michelin 2024 |
