When people think of Kanazawa, most first recall the golden snow scenery of Kenroku-en or the hazy nights of the tea house district. But the soul of this city lies in the hands of craftsmen gripping carving knives and lacquered chopsticks. Since the Edo period, Kanazawa was a stronghold of the Kaga Domain, and the Maeda clan's emphasis on culture developed one of Japan's top traditional craft systems—gold leaf production accounts for over 90% of the national output, lacquerware techniques have been passed down for centuries, and ceramics blend the splendor of Kōtōzan with the flexibility of mountain and paper. Walking into Kanazawa's castle town, it's less like visiting a historical district and more like stepping into a living museum of crafts.
The layout of Kanazawa's castle town differs from typical military towns. The "suji" and "machi" street designs were planned from the start to accommodate craftsmen's working needs. Shops and workshops stood side by side, with masters crafting inside while customers watched from the corridors—this "open workshop" format is still preserved today in the alleyways of Kaheichō and Higashichaya districts. Walking on the tile-paved "Suzumushi Path," the shops on either side are either selling gold leaf wagashi or displaying lacquerware production processes. The air is filled with the distinctive scent of tung oil and metal polish—a key difference between Kanazawa and other castle towns: other places show you walls, here they show you craft.
If you want to experience Kanazawa's craft traditions firsthand, the "Kanazawa Gold Leaf" experience at Higashichaya is an excellent starting point. The箔座 workshop was originally a domain-approved workshop for the Kaga Domain; today visitors can personally apply pure gold leaf onto lacquered chopsticks or wooden boxes, with experiences starting at ¥3,000 (materials and basic instruction included), taking about thirty minutes. The master first gently lifts the gold leaf with a bamboo pick, letting you feel that impossibly light texture on your fingertips—a single piece of gold leaf is only 0.0001mm thick, yet can completely cover the surface of a palm. Kanazawa's gold leaf techniques are designated as important intangible cultural heritage of the nation, and the "blue gold" technique passed down through generations gives gold a pale bluish hue different from pure gold—a unique skill you'll only find in Kanazawa.
About a five-minute walk from Higashichaya, Kaheichō is the district with the strongest literati atmosphere in Kanazawa. The name derives from the Kaga Domain's "kaikei" (accountant) officials who, during the Edo period, managed the domain's finances and logistics, drawing many Aizu samurai and scholar-artists to establish their residences here. Today Kaheichō preserves four hundred years of stone-paved roads and earthen-walled houses, with "Ucha-ya" being the most representative building. This tea house was built in the late Edo period and was once the home of the domain lord's physician; it now serves as a traditional craft exhibition space, displaying representative works of Kaga lacquerware from various periods, including the famous "maki-e" technique—in which metal powder is sprinkled onto lacquer surfaces to create intricate patterns. Admission is free, but lacquerware making experiences require advance reservation, approximately ¥5,500.
Speaking of ceramics, one cannot miss Kōtōzan, this porcelain renowned for its brilliant colors and bold brushwork actually has deep roots in Kanazawa. Although Kōtōzan's birthplace was in the village of Kōtōzan outside Kanazawa, the "Kōtōzan Ceramic Research Institute" within the city is the best place to experience this traditional craft. They offer Kōtōzan painting experiences where visitors can personally paint traditional patterns on unfired white porcelain, starting at ¥4,000; the finished piece will be mailed to you after firing (international shipping requires additional fees). The institute is located in the traditional district of Hashizakichō near Kanazawa Castle, within walking distance, making it perfect to combine with a historical tour of Kanazawa Castle.
Finally, the "Kanazawa Citizens' Craft Museum" comes highly recommended—this is Japan's only public museum themed around "living crafts." Unlike the craft museums in Tokyo or Kyoto, this one emphasizes "the beauty of use"—displaying not artistic masterpieces but everyday items used by ordinary people: lacquer bowls, ceramic tea sets, bamboo baskets. The museum regularly holds free craft demonstration events, including gold leaf application, lacquerware polishing, washi paper making, and more. Museum admission is free but special exhibition tickets are required (permanent collection ¥300, special exhibitions ¥500-800). Located on the banks of the Sai River in the city center, the museum building itself was converted by a renowned designer from a century-old bank, with floor-to-ceiling windows bringing the riverside scenery indoors—perfectly blending traditional crafts with modern architecture.
Kanazawa's castle town may be compact, yet it concentrates the essence of Japanese craft culture. We recommend setting aside at least half a day to stroll slowly through these stone-paved alleyways; don't rush to complete the tour. Instead, find a tea house to sit down, drink a bowl of matcha from a lacquer bowl, paired with a wagashi decorated with gold leaf, and experience that unhurried pace of life that has continued since the Edo period.
