When it comes to Yilan tea, many people first think of Sanxing spring onions or General pears, but this plain surrounded by the Snow Mountain Range actually produces tea leaves that are by no means inferior. However, this article doesn't intend to take you to traditional tea plantations for a superficial tour. Instead, it focuses on several tea shops that Yilan locals would walk to without a second thought to grab a bubble tea.
The tea shop culture in Yilan is quite different from Taipei. There are no boutique tea houses with fancy design packaging found at the bottom of Xinyi District buildings. Instead, these are more down-to-earth small shops where the owner is usually the one brewing the tea themselves and controls the tea source. Here are a few recommendations based on my actual visits.
[Toucheng Township · Shikong Tea House]
Located a five-minute walk from the back exit of Toucheng Railway Station, this isn't the kind of shop that tourists would actively seek out. The shop is tiny with only four seats, but the owner actually roasts tea on the premises. The signature item is "Charcoal-Roasted Oolong" at NT$45 per cup, which has a distinct roasting aroma that is completely different from the standardised taste of chain brands. The menu is simple with an average price range of NT$35-NT$55. Something quite special is their "Pu-erh Milk Tea", made by boiling tea bricks rather than using tea powder - you can even watch the owner pry the tea brick apart on the spot. This shop is quieter on weekday afternoons, but at weekends it's best to avoid the peak hours between 2pm and 4pm.
[Luodong Township · Ping'an Tea Stall]
Competition near Luodong Night Market is fierce, but this old shop that has been open for over 15 years still holds its ground. Located at the triangular window where Gongzheng Road and Zhongshan Road intersect, the unassuming shop front always has people queuing. Their "Winter Slice Tea" is the signature item at NT$40 - "winter slice" refers to tea leaves harvested around the Winter Solstice, which taste sweeter than regular spring tea with a subtle floral note. Do note that they don't offer add-ins - the shop's philosophy is "tea is tea", no tapioca pearls or coconut jelly. If you want something with toppings, try "Traditional Milk Tea at NT$50", made with black tea base and homemade creamer, not the powdered kind from chain brands. The owner insists on not using concentrated tea and manually brewing tea every morning. At this price point in Luodong, it's moderately priced on the higher side, but the quality truly justifies the cost.
[Jiaoxi Township · Tangweigou Tea House]
Located just a three-minute walk from Jiaoxi Hot Spring Park, this might be the most convenient for tourists due to its location. But don't skip it just because there are many tourists - the owner truly understands tea. Their "Hot Spring Milk Tea" at NT$60 is made with locally produced Jiaoxi tea leaves and fresh milk; they do well in ensuring the sweetness doesn't overpower the tea flavour. Even more recommended is their "Cold-Brewed Honey Oolong" at NT$55, made using a long cold-brew extraction method that leaves no astringency, only sweetness. The tea menu offers a good selection, from high-mountain tea to honey black tea, with prices ranging roughly from NT$35 to NT$80. If you're the type who "wants to sit somewhere after a hot spring soak", this is a great place to rest.
[Su'ao Township · Chaoyang Pier Tea]
This shop has a rather special location - near Su'ao Cold Spring but not on the main street, hidden in front of the Chaoyang Temple. The shop is a converted shipping container with a very low-key exterior. The owners are a husband and wife team - the husband handles tea brewing while the wife greets customers. Their most distinctive feature is "Alkaline Life" - essentially alkaline drinks made with local Su'ao water, available for NT$30-NT$40. However, what impressed me even more was their "Osmanthus Oolong" at NT$45 - the osmanthus fragrance comes from fresh osmanthus flowers rather than flavouring, leaving a lasting floral note in your mouth after drinking. The shop is open from 10am to 7pm, closed on Wednesdays. It's recommended to confirm in advance. Though the location is slightly out of the way, it's only a five-minute walk from Su'ao Cold Spring and worth the detour.
[Yilan City · Old Town Tofu Pudding Tea]
In the old town area of Yilan, a three-minute walk from Jimmy's Fruit Market. Strictly speaking, this isn't purely a tea shop but rather a tofu pudding and tea combo establishment. However, their "tea tofu pudding" is quite famous locally. A bowl of tofu pudding with a cup of plain tea at NT$45 - you can choose black tea or green tea as the base. Their tofu pudding is made using traditional methods, with a firmer texture than the pudding-style tofu at chain shops, paired with mildly sweet tea that cuts through the richness perfectly. If you want to try "a Yilan-style afternoon tea", this is an interesting choice.
[Practical Information]
Regarding transportation, if you're coming from Taipei, after taking a coach or train to Yilan Railway Station, the main tea shops can be reached by renting a YouBike or scooter. Toucheng Township and Jiaoxi Township are more conveniently accessed by taxi or scooter. For the Su'ao shop, if you don't have a car, it's recommended to rent a scooter from Su'ao Railway Station as bus services are infrequent. The shops in Luodong Township and Yilan City are concentrated within walking distance from the railway station.
In terms of price range, tea at these shops costs roughly between NT$30 and NT$80, with most regular teas falling between NT$40 and NT$55 - slightly lower than the average prices at Taipei's chain brands. Premium single-origin teas (such as charcoal-roasted oolong or cold-brew tea) cost between NT$55 and NT$80.
Most shops open from 10 or 11am until 6pm to 8pm. If you're planning to visit, weekday afternoons are recommended as there are usually fewer people and it's easier to chat with the owner. Queuing times may be longer at weekends and public holidays, especially for the shop in Jiaoxi near the hot spring area.
[Travel Tips]
The first thing to note is that the biggest difference between Yilan's tea shops and chain brands is that you can directly watch the owner brew tea, and you can even express your opinion and ask them to re-brew. This service experience is basically impossible at chain brands. So after ordering, don't rush off - watching the owner's technique at the counter is also a worthwhile experience.
Secondly, regarding tea flavours, everyone has different preferences. If you're unsure which tea taste you prefer, it's recommended to order a small sample cup first or ask the owner for recommendations. The practice of trying a small cup on the spot before deciding on a larger size is generally accepted at these shops.
The third point is that many tea shops only accept cash, so it's advisable to prepare change in advance. Although mobile payment is becoming increasingly popular, in these traditional small shops there may still be instances where you cannot find a contactless payment terminal.
The fourth point is that if you plan to take the tea you buy back as a souvenir, most of these shops offer packaged tea for sale, with prices being approximately twenty to thirty percent cheaper than tea of equivalent quality in Taipei. If you'd like to take some Yilan-produced tea back with you, you can simply ask the shop owner when purchasing your tea drink.
The very last point to note is that Yilan's weather can change rapidly, making it suitable for visiting tea shops in all seasons. However, in summer, remember to bring sun protection and rain gear. The temperature difference in winter is significant, especially if you plan to visit shops in Jiaoxi or Toucheng, so bringing a light jacket would be advisable.
Frequently Asked Questions
