When most people think of Nara, they immediately picture the Great Buddha of Nara and the deer in Nara Park. But on the eastern side of this ancient capital lies a completely different scenic route—crossing Mount Yoshino, deep into the northern end of the Kumano Kodo, and winding through the hot spring village of Tenkawa Village. This route doesn't compete with historical monuments; instead, it presents another face of Nara through natural mountains, meditation training grounds, and hidden hot springs. If you've already visited downtown Nara and looking for a self-drive or rail itinerary that will elevate your journey, this article's direction will be more suitable for you.
The scenic routes in eastern Nara are most distinctive for their atmosphere of "mountain sacred sites." Mount Yoshino has been the center of Japanese Buddhist Shugendo since ancient times, where it is said that Nichiren Shonin's founder practiced here; the Tenkawa Village area is the starting point of the northern Kumano Kodo, where the pilgrimage paths are well preserved, and along the way, shrines, stone monuments, and shrine lodgings form a living corridor of faith. These attractions are not only beautiful scenery but also carry Japan's unique religious and cultural context.
The first recommended spot is Mount Yoshino (Yoshino-cho, Yoshino-gun, Nara Prefecture). This mountain was called "Mount Kinpu" during the Heian period and is a famous Shugendo sacred site. Every April when the cherry blossoms bloom, the entire mountain is tinged pink and has been selected as one of Japan's top 100 cherry blossom spots. But visiting in autumn is actually more stunning—maple leaves turn fiery red, paired with ancient temple buildings, presenting a picture-perfect mountain scene. It is recommended to walk along the trail from Shimo-senmon up to the top, passing through Kinpu-san Temple and Zao-do Hall, to experience the solemn atmosphere of mountain faith. The worship fee is about ¥500, and off-season outside cherry blossom season has fewer crowds, suitable for leisurely exploration.
The second recommended spot is Horikawa Hot Spring (Tenkawa Village, Yoshino-gun, Nara Prefecture). This hot spring village located at an altitude of 600 meters has over 1,300 years of history and is one of the oldest hot spring areas in Nara Prefecture. The hot spring water is a chloride spring, effective in relieving joint and nerve pain. The village has several Japanese-style hot spring inns, with accommodation including dinner costing around ¥12,000-¥18,000, which is mid-range among Kansai hot spring areas but offers excellent value. The greatest charm of Horikawa Hot Spring is its "secret spot" atmosphere—no commercialized hot spring street, only ancient folk houses and quiet canyons, perfect for travelers wanting to escape the crowds. Some roads may have snow in winter, so it is recommended to check road conditions in advance.
The third recommended spot is the Kumano Kodo Daikaniyama Trail (Kami-kitayama Village, Yoshino-gun, Nara Prefecture). This old trail connects Daikaniyama Mountain to the Kumano Sanzan, and is one of the most primitive sections of the Kumano Kodo. Daikaniyama is the largest evergreen broadleaf forest zone in mainland Japan, with rich ecology; with good luck, you can see wild deer and mountain birds. The trail is accessible from sunrise to sunset, with no specific worship fee. This route is suitable for hiking enthusiasts with basic fitness; completing the entire trail takes 4-6 hours, and if time is limited, shorter sections can also be chosen. In recent years, a "pilgrim tourism" trend has emerged in the Japanese travel industry, with the proportion of foreign travelers walking the Kumano Kodo significantly increasing, and this trail's international visibility continues to rise.
The fourth recommended spot is Totsukawa Village (Totsukawa Village, Yoshino-gun, Nara Prefecture). This is a mountain village located in the interior of the Kii Peninsula, known as "Totsukawa," and during the Sengoku period, it was the base of an armed farmer group called the "Totsukawa Ninja." The Tatarase Suspension Bridge in the village is one of the longest pedestrian suspension bridges in Japan (bridge length 500 meters, 54 meters above the river), and looking down at the valley from the bridge is very breathtaking. The suspension bridge is free to cross, but local residents are friendly to tourists and often proactively provide local guides. Totsukawa Village is also a production area for persimmons and tea, and in autumn, you can buy seasonal dried persimmons (¥500-800 per bag), which make great souvenirs.
The final recommended spot is Kashihara Shrine (Kashihara City, Nara Prefecture). Although not in the eastern mountain area, for self-drive itineraries, you will pass by here when driving east from Nara City. Kashihara Shrine enshrines Emperor Jimmu, Japan's first emperor, and is an important shrine on the eastern edge of the Nara Basin. The forest around the shrine is designated as a special natural monument, and the ginkgo and maple leaves in autumn are very beautiful. The highlight here is the archaeological value related to the "Emperor Jimmu's Eastern Campaign legend," and travelers interested in Japanese ancient history will find it very rewarding.
In terms of transportation, if departing from Osaka or Kyoto, self-driving or renting a car is recommended, as public transportation in the eastern Nara mountains is infrequent. Self-driving from Osaka takes about 2 hours to reach Mount Yoshino, and from Mount Yoshino to Horikawa Hot Spring takes about 30 minutes, making a two-day one-night itinerary ideal. Rail enthusiasts can take the Kintetsu Yoshino Line from Osaka Abenobashi to Yoshino Station (about 80 minutes on express), then transfer to buses to various attractions, but the schedule is limited, so timetables need to be checked in advance.
Travel tips: The mountain roads in eastern Nara have rapid weather changes, so it is recommended to bring rain gear and warm clothing. There are more mosquitoes in summer, so bring mosquito repellent. Accommodations at hot spring villages usually require booking more than a week in advance, especially during maple viewing season (mid-November). If planning to walk the Kumano Kodo, it is recommended to wear hiking-appropriate shoes and bring enough water and food. These attractions have relatively fewer foreign tourists compared to the city area, so English communication may require gestures or translation apps, but this is precisely why they maintain their "secret spot" atmosphere.
