Changzhou (Cheung Chau) — if you haven't been told, you wouldn't know that it's actually one of the first islands in Hong Kong to be featured in the Michelin Street Food Guide. After visiting so many places to eat, my favourite still has to be Changzhou — because the food here isn't the sort of "tourist-trap" packaged stuff, but rather genuinely fresh fish caught by uncles who go out to sea in the early morning, and the silky tofu pudding that the lady boss makes every single night getting up at the crack of dawn.
Changzhou itself is a tiny old fishing village on an island, with an area of just 2.4 square kilometres, but with a population of several ten thousand. It's already quite bustling on normal days, and becomes absolutely packed on weekends. Because it's geographically isolated from the city, with the ferry taking a good half hour or so, most of the eateries here are run by people who've committed to sticking it out with Changzhou — unlike in the city where places can just trick people and then shut up shop. You want to know why I say this? Well, in recent years, although there have been more tourists and some rents have gone up quite a bit, there's still a group of old-established shops holding the fort, so I've written them down for everyone.
【Special Highlights】
Changzhou's street food has three treasures: fish balls, glutinous rice dumplings, and seafood. These three have earned their fame not just because the ingredients are fresh enough, but also because the masters here actually get stuck in and make everything by hand — unlike chain shops where everything's made by machines.
The first treasure is obviously the fish balls — but these fish balls here are completely different from the canned stuff you get elsewhere. The fish balls in Changzhou are made fresh every day: mackerel or threadfin are landed and then immediately ground into fish paste, before being hand-squeezed into pellets. The bounciness when you bite into them is a whole different ball game from the "texture" you normally get. And many of their soup bases are simmered from fish bones for several hours — one sip and you know it's the real deal.
The second treasure is the glutinous rice dumplings — there are a few shops selling these in Changzhou, one of which has been passed down through two generations. The master makes the dumpling skin by hand every day, and the filling — peanuts and sesame, stir-fried until fragrant — is double the size of what you get elsewhere. For just $10-$15, you can get one, and for $20 you can eat until your belly sticks out.
The third is the seafood — you might say "mainland tourists are the ones who eat seafood", but I'm telling you, Hong Kong's seafood itself is already cheaper than in many places, and the seafood shops here have plenty of options: from steamed seasonal fish to local clams with garlic, the value for money is simply different. So if you're asking me where you can find the most "Changzhou-flavored" street food, I'd say — it's all concentrated along Dongtan Road and Haibin Road, right after you come out of Changzhou Pier. You can go from breakfast to dinner walking around that one area.
【Recommended Places】(arranged by geographical location)
1. 【Dongjin Fish Balls】$12-$18 a box (small) / $20-$25 (large box)
Address: 12 Dongjin Road, Changzhou (near the pier)
This place has been open in Changzhou for over 20 years. The boss starts making the fish paste at 5am every morning, and his fish balls are truly "hand-made" — if you look into the kitchen, you'll see them working on a big stone chopping board in proper position, completely worlds apart from the machine-made stuff from chain shops. His curry fish balls are my favourite — the curry sauce is made in-house, with a bit of a kick, and when you bite into it, the fish flavour just explodes out. I tried giving some to my friend from Guangzhou, and he said "wow, now that's what I call a fish ball" — look, if you're used to the frozen stuff, this one will completely redefine your perception of fish balls. But a heads up: they normally open at 7am in the morning, and they sell out quickly, so if you want to try some, make sure you time your visit right.
2. 【Wan Mama Glutinous Rice Dumplings】$10-$15 each / $25 for three
Address: 28 Xinxing Street, Changzhou (next to the traditional market)
This shop is run by just one sister, and it's been passed down through two generations. The dumpling skin is made the old-fashioned way — using raw starch and glutinous rice ground into powder, made fresh on the spot, rather than the pre-mixed powder they use elsewhere. The peanut and sesame filling is loaded in generously — each one is stuffed to bursting, and the soft, sticky texture gently grates against your teeth — I think this is what you really call "eating glutinous rice dumplings". Most importantly, the prices are incredibly kind — you can get one for just $10, and a set of three is only $25, truly a model of Changzhou's affordable prices. I'd suggest going earlier in the day because these are so popular that they often sell out by 3pm.
3. 【Kang Ji Seafood】Approximately HK$80-$150 per person (depends on how much you spend)
Address: Xiwang Road, Changzhou (near the Tin Hau Temple)
If you're asking me about the "best value seafood in Changzhou", I'd say it's this place. The shop isn't big, just a few small tables, but the ingredients really take advantage of being by the sea — their seafood is supplied directly by fishing boats from across the water, without going through lengthy cold storage logistics. Recommended dishes include: stir-fried clams with black bean sauce ($45 a portion, price subject to availability), steamed grouper (subject to availability, roughly $80-$120), and poached prawns ($50). Actually, I think the best thing here is the "seafood soup" — a broth made from fish heads and bones, so clear you won't want to let go — at those prices and that quality, you simply won't find in the city. But a tip: these shops tend to have fresher offerings in the evenings, so I'd suggest going for dinner.
4. 【Choi Kee Tea Restaurant】Set meals $35-$55
Address: Daxin Street, Changzhou (opposite the Central Ferry Pier)
This is a typical Changzhou tea restaurant — not fine dining, but the food is very much locals-style — their char siu and egg rice (or "char siu fried egg rice") goes for $38, made using local methods. The egg is made to order as a runny yolk egg, and the char siu is made in-house rather than supplied by some central factory from outside. Their Hong Kong-style milk tea is also decent — it's these small details that really test the level of a tea restaurant. On top of that, the location is super convenient — just 30 seconds' walk from the pier, so if you're short on time and want a quick bite, this is definitely the top choice.
5. 【Su Ji Dessert Shop】$15-$25 per bowl
Address: Xinxing Street, Changzhou (near the school)
If you're asking me what the most "well-hidden but best" thing in Changzhou is — I'd say it's the tofu pudding from Su Ji. Their beancurd is made from soybeans and seawater (the local seawater and rock water quality in Changzhou is relatively good), with a texture so smooth it's almost professional-standard, completely devoid of that "factory taste" you get from chain shops. The key is that the sweetness level is just right — not too sweet, not bland either — truly embodying the term "old-school craftsmanship". Top recommendations: red bean tofu pudding ($18), steamed milk pudding with fresh milk ($22). For $20, you can get a bowl of Chinese dessert made with genuine heart — now, isn't that worth it?
【Practical Information】
【How to Get There】
Method one (most commonly used): Take the high-speed ferry from Pier 5 in Central, journey takes about 35-40 minutes, standard class fares are $14.5 ($22 on Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays), deluxe class is about $3-$5 more. High-speed ferry frequency is normally every half an hour, and they're absolutely packed on weekends and holidays — I'd recommend booking your ticket in advance.
Method two (slower ferry): Take the regular ferry from Pier 6 in Central, journey takes about 55 minutes to an hour. The advantages are cheaper fares and fewer people, but you'll need to allow plenty of time.
Method three (holiday special routes): On certain days there are express routes from Tsuen Wan or other piers, but these have fewer departures. It's best to check the Kowloon Motor Bus website schedule before you set off.
Overall, I'd say if you want to "avoid the crowds", the best value method is — "go on a weekday morning".
【Estimated Costs】
Changzhou street food spending: $15-$50 can sort you out a meal (e.g., fish balls + glutinous rice dumplings + a drink = $45);
If you want to cross over for a seafood feast: $80-$150 per person (more than enough to fill you up);
If you round it off with dessert too, the bill comes to about $70, overall at least 30%-40% cheaper than in the city.
【Opening Hours】
Island shops normally:
- Traditional breakfast stalls: 7:00am-10:00am
- Snacks/fish ball shops: 10:00am-6:00pm (most close once sold out)
- Seafood restaurants: 11:30am-10:00pm
- Dessert shops: 12:00nn-9:00pm
【Travel Tips】
1. 【Avoid peak times】Changzhou is packed on Saturdays and Sundays, especially the queues are longest between 2-5pm. Want to avoid queuing? Go on a weekday before 10am, or after 5pm in the evening (ferry companies usually have services until around 8-9pm).
2. 【Bring cash】Many traditional old shops here don't accept Octopus or credit cards, especially the smaller snack stalls — they're all cash only. Bringing $300-$500 on you is the wise move.
3. 【Wear the right shoes】The roads in Changzhou aren't too difficult to navigate, but because there are quite a few slopes and you'll be walking around looking for food, wearing a comfortable pair of shoes will really help — the thing about Changzhou is that you have to walk to find the just-right good food.
4. 【Check the weather】If a Number 8 typhoon signal is hoisted, all ferry services suspend, and Changzhou becomes a stranded island — do check the Observatory's forecast before you set off.
5. 【Bring an eco bag】Environmental awareness in Changzhou has improved a bit in recent years. Most snack stalls now practise the "take your own litter" principle, so bringing an eco bag and some tissues will make things more convenient.
Changzhou's Michelin street food may not be as flashy as what you get in the city, but that's precisely because it's "simple and honest" — fresh catches, glutinous rice skins with no additives, and the human touch from the bosses — that's why the food here feels like the real "Hong Kong flavour". If you want to get away for the weekend but don't want to go as far as Lantau Island, Changzhou is definitely the best choice for a day trip.
