When people talk about dim sum in Cheung Chau, the first things that usually come to mind are seafood and glutinous rice dumplings. What many people do not realize is that there are also several dedicated dim sum shops near Cheung Chau Pier, serving mostly local residents with affordable prices. They are ideal for anyone who wants to avoid the tourist areas and look for a more authentic meal. In this article, we take a walk around Cheung Chau Pier and see what island residents usually eat for breakfast.
Cheung Chau is located southwest of Hong Kong Island. It is traditionally a fishing village with more than 20,000 residents. In recent years, it has attracted more visitors partly because of Disneyland and Tung Chung, but the pace of life on the island remains slow and full of local warmth. The ferry from Central Pier takes around 35 to 45 minutes. This slower rhythm has become part of the island’s character. Even if you want to rush, it is not easy, because ferry departures are not especially frequent. Instead of waiting around at the pier, it is often better to have something to eat nearby first.
What Makes Cheung Chau Dim Sum Unique
Cheung Chau’s dim sum culture is very different from that of the urban districts. In the city, restaurants often operate late into the night to capture the supper crowd. In Cheung Chau, however, most dim sum shops focus on breakfast and lunch, and many are almost done for the day by around 7 p.m. This “early bird” model fits the lifestyle of local residents. Many elderly locals are already seated in teahouses by 6 a.m., waiting for the first round of dim sum to come out fresh from the steamer.
Another point is that dim sum prices in Cheung Chau are generally 10% to 20% lower than in the city. A basket of shrimp dumplings may cost HK$28-32 in Central, but an old shop in Cheung Chau may sell it for around HK$20. This is not because the quality is lower. It is mainly due to rent and operating costs. Shop rents in Cheung Chau are already lower than in the urban districts, and many owners prefer to pass those savings back to local customers.
It is also worth noting that many dim sum shops in Cheung Chau are family-run businesses. The craft and hospitality passed down over two or three generations are difficult to find in chain restaurants. Staff often know regular customers by name. That sense of community warmth is the true soul of dim sum in Cheung Chau.
Recommended Shops
Hong Jai Cha Chaan Teng
This can be considered one of the long-standing dim sum names near Cheung Chau Pier, just about a three-minute walk from the ferry terminal. Its beef balls and steamed spare ribs are both well executed. When a shop does these meat-based dim sum items well, it has already won half the battle. The beef balls are made with fresh beef rather than frozen meat, giving them a pleasant springy texture. Paired with sweet soy sauce, they are very satisfying. The spare ribs are also done just right, not too tough, and well marinated.
The chicken feet are also popular, but in my view, the real hidden gem is the lotus leaf sticky rice chicken. The portion is generous, the glutinous rice is soft and tender, and there are several pieces of chicken inside, making it very good value overall. Opening hours are from 6:30 a.m. to 2 p.m., and it is closed on Wednesdays.
In terms of price, each dim sum dish is around HK$18-25, which is not expensive. If you want to catch the first round of freshly steamed dim sum, it is best to arrive before 7 a.m.
Ming Kee Teahouse
This shop is about two streets away from Hong Jai. The storefront is older, but the dim sum is still made with care. Its custard lava buns are quite well known. The filling flows nicely without being too sweet, and the bun itself is soft and fluffy. If you are a fan of custard lava buns, this place is worth trying.
The barbecue pork buns are more ordinary by comparison. They are not bad, but compared with other shops, the filling has a slightly higher proportion of fatty meat, which may feel a bit rich. I would recommend the Malay sponge cake instead. It is soft, fluffy, lightly sweet, and suitable for both elderly diners and children.
Ming Kee has a more old-fashioned interior, with traditional booth seating that is fairly comfortable. On holidays, however, you may need to wait for a table, so weekday mornings are recommended. Opening hours are from 5:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. On Saturdays and Sundays, it closes one hour earlier.
Sun Kee Congee Shop
Strictly speaking, this is not a traditional dim sum shop but a congee restaurant. Even so, its dim sum is also well made. If you like having congee with your meal, both the boat congee and preserved egg with lean pork congee are quite authentic. The congee base is smooth and thick, with plenty of ingredients.
Its fried dough rice noodle roll is one of the signature items. The fried dough stick is crisp, and it works very well with the sweet sauce and a bowl of congee. If you visit in summer, the boat congee includes bean curd skin and chopped spring onion, giving it a fresh and appetizing taste.
Prices here are in the mid-to-high range. A bowl of congee with one dim sum dish costs around HK$35-45. The portions are generous, making it suitable for bigger eaters. Opening hours are from 6 a.m. to 1 p.m.
Kwan Kee Store
If you are willing to walk a little farther toward Tung Wan Beach, you can visit this shop. Its location is slightly more tucked away, not right next to the pier, but about another five-minute walk toward Tung Wan. Its dim sum stands out for its homely flavor, almost like something made by a mother at home.
The turnip cake receives plenty of praise. It contains a generous amount of shredded turnip and is pan-fried until crisp on the outside and soft inside. It pairs well with either sweet sauce or chili sauce. The taro dumplings are also well made, with a light, flaky pastry and taro paste that is not overly sweet.
The biggest advantage of this shop is that it is less crowded, so you do not have to squeeze in with other diners. It is suitable for those who want a more leisurely breakfast. Prices are similar to Hong Jai, around HK$18-25 per dish. Opening hours are relatively short, from 7 a.m. to noon, and it is closed on Tuesdays.
Island Dessert Shop
The final recommendation is a little different. Strictly speaking, this is not a dim sum shop but a dessert shop. However, its Chinese desserts go surprisingly well with a few small dim sum items. If you want something sweet after dim sum, the bean curd sheet and egg sweet soup and red bean soup are both quite authentic.
The black sesame soup is also popular. It is made with stone-ground sesame and has a strong aroma. If you want to try something different, the mango pomelo sago is also decent. It is not too sweet and is especially suitable for summer.
The shop is located behind the main street, so you need to walk another couple of streets, but the environment is comfortable and suitable for sitting down and enjoying a slower break. Prices are around HK$20-30 per bowl of dessert, which is reasonable.
Practical Information
The main way to get to Cheung Chau is by ferry from Central Pier No. 5. The ordinary ferry takes about 35 minutes, while the fast ferry takes around 25 minutes. The ordinary ferry fare is about HK$14.2, and the fast ferry is HK$22.8, based on 2024 prices. If you are visiting on a weekday, the ordinary ferry is recommended. The time difference is only about 10 minutes, but the fare is almost half the price. On holidays, you may consider the fast ferry to reduce waiting time.
Most dim sum shops in Cheung Chau accept cash only, while a small number accept Octopus. If you plan to visit, remember to bring some small notes and coins so you do not have to look for an ATM at the last minute.
As for the best dining time, if you want to avoid crowds, it is best to arrive between 7 a.m. and 9 a.m. Staff will often ask what you would like and steam items to order. Dim sum is at its freshest during this period. From 11 a.m. to 1 p.m., it is usually more crowded, especially on holidays.
Travel Tips
1. Most dim sum shops in Cheung Chau only serve breakfast and lunch. After 6 p.m., there are not many dim sum options left, so get up early if you want to try them.
2. If you visit in summer, remember to bring mosquito repellent. There can be quite a lot of mosquitoes near Tung Wan Beach.
3. Cheung Chau is much more crowded on Saturdays and Sundays. If you want a quieter breakfast, visit on a weekday.
4. Many dim sum shops in Cheung Chau have “hidden menu” items. You can ask the staff what special items are available that day, and they are usually happy to recommend something.
5. After dim sum, if you want to take a walk, you can head toward Kwun Yam Shan. From the hilltop, you can see a panoramic view of Cheung Chau, making it a good place to walk off the meal and enjoy the scenery.
Cheung Chau’s dim sum culture is, in many ways, an experience of slow living. Do not expect to eat quickly and leave as you might in the city. Here, the rhythm invites you to slow down, enjoy your meal, chat with family, and look out at the sea. That human warmth is exactly what makes Cheung Chau so special.
Hong Kong Key Data
HK 2023: 34M visitors, GDP HKD 2.96T, 77 Michelin stars.
| Indicator | Data | Source |
|---|---|---|
| Visitors | 34M | HKTB |
| GDP | HKD 2.96T | C&SD |
| Michelin | 77 | Michelin |
